Zegna Couture Winter 17 made-to-measure [Gallery]

This Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Winter 2017 show was the first for new Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori. He paired sophisticated tailoring with clothes made for the fast-paced needs of people who travel regularly, and where form is just as important as function.

The show was set around Anselm Kiefer’s The Seven Heavenly Palaces, a piece of art featuring intricate architecture and precision engineering. A good combination, considering the clothes are a contrast between technologically-advanced materials and sartorial construction. The idea behind the entire collection is simple; the clothing is luxurious but can take a beating.

Some new materials were featured – which is surely something of a passion for Alessandro Satori at this point – included Casentino felt; made from ultralight cashmere (meaning suits can be worn as weather-beating outerwear). Trofeo Cashmere Denim; used in jerseys and padded jacquards. Baby calf leather, which is nothing new, but thanks to a unique tanning process has a waterproof feel to it.

The cuts are soft, with sharp lines on the shoulders and a natural feel. Inside-out construction makes the clothes hard-wearing, the drawstrings, for example, are melded into the shape of formal coats and field jackets. And rubberised zips on outerwear are a nice touch.

The colour palette is organic in nature. Expect lots of wintery white and light grey notes, along with rusted nail and African earth. Brighter colours take the form of oxblood, pond blue and peacock blue.

Accessories are another example of the cohesive structure and function motif of the collection. Sports sneakers and brogues feature silicon-dipped soles for extra wear. Portfolio briefcases and backpacks are double-stitched. And for some, an innovative Pelle Tessuta technique – where a particular loom turns thin strips of leather into a woven fabric – are used to make them secure, but supremely eye-catching.