From denim shirts to houndstooth blazers, the best names in heritage clothing are taking time-honoured favourites and (somehow) making them better than ever before.
***
Rinse and Repeat
Italians cut a suit like no one else: unstructured, unlined, and close to the body. They’re less famous for (but just as good at) beautifully lived-in finishes: rinsed, rumpled, and weathered garments that feel like old favorites. This Massimo Alba two-piece is a perfect specimen: Washed and dyed after construction, it’s puckered at the seams and shrunk just enough that you don’t need to be too precious with it.
Lighten Up
Camel hair used to be good for two things: covering up camels and keeping you warm. Luckily, the tailoring experts at Caruso teamed up with the textile savants at Loro Piana to spin that camel hair into gold. Gobigold, they call it — a nod to the desert dwellers who furnished the raw material. This new fabrication is woven with silk and linen for a lightweight, supersoft finish you can wear through the summer.
Go Long
There’s already a movement afoot to take the polo beyond its country-club roots. (Better fabrics and a looser cuts make all the difference.) But a long-sleeved version in a fine-spun knit? That feels downright Continental — like you’re any other local kicking around the Amalfi Coast. It elevates a pair of shorts. It loosens up a blazer. And it outshines your average polo any day of the week.
Show Your Teeth
It’s hard saying goodbye to the tweedy staples that make winter every guy’s favourite sartorial season. So don’t. Or at least maintain the vibe with a houndstooth blazer that looks suitable enough for a hunting party. Rendered in a silk blend light enough to wear while sipping Campari al fresco, it’s the sophisticated way to take on summer.
Change into Chinos
Incotex does just one thing: pants. And it does them so well you almost don’t mind that it deprives you of shirts, jackets, and sweaters. Especially when you pick up a pair like these: a cotton-linen blend that’s as solid as sailcloth, with an irregular slubby texture and a special wash that leaves some extra pigment at the seams. It’s almost enough to make a man swear off jeans for good.
March Out of Step
Santoni is known for its elegant shoes, crafted with Old World methods. But it’s still up for a little experimentation. This take on the derby, for instance, upends the norm with extra-high facings (where your shoelaces go), and the laces have a wide, ribbonlike aesthetic. The hand-applied patina may give them a classic cognac color, but make no mistake: These shoes are a little weird (in a good way).
Depend on Denim
There are knock-around denim shirts as American as the Fourth of July — and then there’s this shirt. It’s still denim, and it has a washed-out gradient that looks suitably rugged. But the swept-back collar and subtle chevron striping speak to its European heritage. It looks casual with chinos and smart with a coat and tie, but it’s still eminently appropriate for a backyard barbecue.
Toughen Up
The tailored cousin to the M-65, the safari jacket lives in that blissful grey area between utility and formality. This one from venerable Florentine tailors Liverano & Liverano looks polished with a shirt and tie, but the sturdy cotton-canvas material (and handy assortment of pockets) makes it a lot more robust than your usual cocktail-party attire. Wear it well and often.
Protect Your Neck
It’s easy making fun of the guy in the summer scarf until you’re sitting on an airplane or a drafty restaurant and suddenly you’ve got goose bumps that are visible through your T-shirt. Does a scarf like this add some flair? Sure it does. But more importantly, it has a function. Overactive AC is a constant menace. Abroad, tempurates can plummet after sunset. You could keep a cable-knit on hand all season, but this seems like a smarter solution.
Go Long
There’s already a movement afoot to take the polo beyond its country-club roots. (Better fabrics and a looser cuts make all the difference.) But a long-sleeved version in a fine-spun knit? That feels downright Continental — like you’re any other local kicking around the Amalfi Coast. It elevates a pair of shorts. It loosens up a blazer. And it outshines your average polo any day of the week.
