Gradients of Pepto-Bismol coloured sand and a clean narrow white space filled the Dior SS20 runway at the Arab World Institute and proved once again how exciting the appointment of Kim Jones at Dior Homme has been.
Just like his two previous shows with KAWS and Hajime Sorayama, Jones has cleverly collaborated with an artist again, this time embracing all things post-apocalyptic with Daniel Arsham.
Even before the show began, four sculpted letters spelling out DIOR constructed from white, crumbling stone and studded with pale crystal shards, a Daniel Arsham installation, made the audience examine his archaeology of the present and reminded us of his impressive ‘Future Relics’ series based on the prospective excavation of obsolete objects that have been buried for years and only later discovered in an archaeological dig.
This entropic future seemed perfect for Kim’s desaturated, muted colour palette and end of the world, cutting edge collection. There was a priority on proportions and draping, where tone on tone relaxed, slim-fit suiting were bound at the waist with silk obi sashes or shirts. Layers of sheer delicate fabric combinations were built up to dramatic effect and paired with the most sumptuous leathers, featuring desert-style protective hoods and safari deconstructed caps that will work perfectly in desert storm city of Dubai.
Elsewhere, a faded newspaper print paying homage to John Galliano’s influential time at Dior Haute Couture back in 2000 found its way onto shirts, socks, trainers and a series of collaborative RIMOWA bags, the first union between the luggage label and Dior. Like other LVMH controlled brands, Dior understands the importance of accessories with notable stand outs including the heavy duty aluminium backpacks, a Dior X RIMOWA cool box with openings for a drinks bottle with two flutes and several new iterations of the Dior’s Saddle bag.
This collection by the king of collaboration, Kim Jones for Dior, was a lesson in low key luxury, a menswear offering that blended streetwear-friendly branding with mature tailored garments that any modern man would be happy to wear.
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