Last night, at 9:30pm local time on the Pont Neuf bridge in Paris, you could feel a seismic shift in fashion. As Pharrell Williams staged his debut show as Louis Vuitton’s new menswear creative director, the industry’s place as entertainment was confirmed, thanks to a star-studded event jolting the world from its recent quiet luxury coma. Not only that, but Williams himself was perhaps finally accepted as a suitable appointment at the House. A thought that seemed unlikely just a few short months ago.
Pharrell Williams at Louis Vuitton
It all feels a long way from Williams’ appointment earlier this year (on Valentine’s Day no less). When the news broke that he would take over the reins of LV menswear after the tragic passing of Virgil Abloh, the fashion world sneered. “I didn’t go to Central St Martins but, you know, I didn’t go to Juillard to study music. And I’ve been alright,” came the response from the man who had previously collaborated with Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Nike, BAPE and more.
The debut collection
Unsurprisingly for a man who has been involved with the streetwear phenomenon for decades, everything at his Paris Fashion Week debut felt very coppable. While there might not have been too many big surprises—a convertible jeep down the runway stacked with LV luggage aside—Williams delivered a collection packed with smart, loose tailoring. Coats came in fur, leather and denim, boots were big and bold, while trousers had just the right amount of flare. Of course the LV logo was everywhere, while a pixelated camo was worn by the man himself as he took the applause of the crowd.
Front row celebrity force
Although the collection itself hit most of the right notes, you could argue that Louis Vuitton’s trump card came with the spectacle of it all. Williams, quite simply, has box office appeal. Guests were ferried to the show sipping champagne in boats along the Seine, while the front row included Jay-Z and Beyoncé, Rihanna—who starred in Wlliams’ Louis Vuitton campaign, baby bump and all—A$AP Rocky, Zendaya, Lewis Hamilton, Kelly Rowland, Tyler, the Creator and Kim Kardashian. While a dazzling front row is nothing new in fashion, this felt like something else. A dazzling flex from LV to show it understands the market better than most. As long-time collaborator Jay-Z played the aftershow to an uncharacteristically awed crowd, Willaims joined him for a version of their 2003 track, “Frontin’”. Back in an environment he feels comfortable, for sure. But by the looks of his debut show, it appears that Williams’ power base is shifting, just like the industry beside him
Didn’t manage to make it to Paris for the show? Don’t worry, we got you. You can watch the entire show below.