At the big, annual watch and jewellery fair – Watches & Wonders – in Geneva, few brands decided to swing for the fences quite like Vacheron Constantin. Certainly, there was some impressive design tweaks and the introduction of the occasional new material and additional complication here and there—but it seemed that creatively, the oldest continual watchmaking manufacture was not only playing in a league of its own but, at times, was playing in an entirely different sport from the rest. Here is our detailed breakdown of the latest line-up from the renowned Swiss watchmaker…
Overseas collection with Green Dial
By and large, the watch world is a little slower to revisiting trends than, say, the fashion world is. The earthy green dial was a bit of thing pre-pandemic, with it finding favour with
plenty of customers—especially in the Middle East region. Well, it seems that in 2024, the shade is back, and none more impressive than within the all-conquering Overseas collection from Vacheron Constantin.
The mossy hue comes as a natural progression from its emblematic deep-sea dial, and can be found across several sizes including the 35mm gemset, 41mm date, 42.5mm chronograph and 41mm dual time pink-gold models. Water-resistant to 150 metres, each of these new timepieces are equipped with a top-quality self-winding calibre, containing movements with an oscillating weight engraved with the collection’s emblematic compass rose. And if the dial wasn’t enough, the bracelet can be interchanged with both a coordinating calfskin leather or rubber strap. En vogue as well as timeless, it’s got the green light from us.
Égérie – The Pleats of Time
Pushing the creative boundaries of what watchmaking could be, this year saw the release of another showstopper, the Égérie – The Pleats of Time project. The concept watch was created from the idea of combining Haute Horlogerie, Haute Couture and Haute Parfumerie—as part of a never-before-seen execution in the watch industry.
In order to do so, Vacheron Constantin collaborated with both Parisian couturier Yiqing Yin, and master perfumer Dominique Ropion to not only create a timepiece inspired
by a couture dress, but one which also houses a bespoke fragrance within the watchstrap. A fragrance in a watchstrap, you ask? Well, here’s where the real clever stuff comes in.
The fragrance, created by Ropion (with notes of lavender and orange blossom), is infused into nanoparticles that store the scent and then weaved into the watch strap, that is also embellished with silk embroidery and mother-of-pearl fragments. When the strap is twisted the nanoparticles break releasing a subtle scent.
In terms of the timepiece, the 37mm pink gold case is adorned with diamonds, but instead of hour markers, the powdered lilac dial is decorated with a ‘pleats’ motif—a nod to the haute couture dressmaking—on the asymmetrical dial.
“We wanted to create a unique object that would be exceptional in design and symbolic significance,” says Sandrine Donguy, Vacheron Constantin’s product and innovation director. “The end result is a balance between three worlds, bound together by shared values and a shared quest for beauty, dreams and refinement.”
In an era where luxury brands are pushing boundaries to offer exceptional products and experiences, Égérie – The Pleats of Time promises a sensory journey that intertwines fragrance with haute horlogerie. As the world’s first perfume watch, it not only keeps track of time but also evokes nostalgic moments, and reaffirms Vacheron Constantin at the very peak of creative innovation.
Patrimony
The watch industry loves a good anniversary and, full disclosure, so do we (any excuse for a party). This year Vacheron Constantin celebrates the 20th year of its elegant Patrimony collection. Created in 2004 but wholly inspired by the minimalist watches of the 1950s, the Patrimony line has become the modern dress watch staple in the Vacheron Constantin catalogue.
In celebration of the anniversary three new models have been unveiled, each blending
the streamlined, retro styling with modern horology. Two 39mm pieces, one in white gold
(pictured right) and the other in rose gold, feature the clean, open dial of celebrated Vacheron Constantin watches from the 1950s with their distinctive baton markers and two-hand display. A third, for those looking for a little more complication, features a retrograde date display and moon phase in a 42.5mm white gold case added to the lineup.
The Berkley Grand Complication
Oh, in case you missed it in Geneva, Vacheron Constantin presented the world’s most complicated watch. Comprising of 63 horological complications and a cool 2,877 components—it surpasses the record already held by the Maison with Reference 57260.
This world-first timepiece is distinguished by the fact that it features a genuine Chinese perpetual calendar. Given the particularities of this lunisolar calendar characterised by a complex and irregular cycle, the mechanical programming of in-house Calibre 3752 through to the year 2200 is a feat nothing short of horological genius. The result of 11 years of development— including a year entirely devoted to its assembly—Les Cabinotiers The Berkley Grand Complication is a milestone in contemporary watchmaking history. Similar in design to the previously mentioned Reference 57260 (presented in 2015), Les Cabinotiers The Berkley Grand Complication is about the size of a human fist, and the idea of it was born from the will of the same commissioner who has chosen to give it his name.