2025 being the Year of the Snake opens up a wealth of opportunity for Bvlgari; the Maison’s crowning glory is their Serpenti collection after all. Named for the snake and the emblem of eternal rebirth, the Serpenti motif is born anew this year in the form of mechanical sculpture, as Bvlgari joins hands with MB&F (Maximilian Büsser & Friends) to create a watch that’s probably better described as a feat of engineering.
While this may be a completely new chapter for both Maisons, it’s not the first time they’ve combined their artistic visions. A joint release in 2021 was set in motion by a serendipitous meeting between Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Büsser, founder and creative director of MB&F. This collaboration cemented Bvlgari’s place as one of the Friends referred to in MB&F, and sparked discussion on what was to come after.
The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti, described as being “truly genderless”, invokes both the serpentine as well as the elements of automotive sculpture MB&F Legacy Machines are known for. Bvlgari’s signature glittering gems adorn it in a display of luxury and vibrancy. The construction of the Machine required a complete re-imagination of Serpenti, with a return to the drawing board for various aspects of the process. The result speaks (or rather, hisses) for itself.
The watch’s case deviates from the norm with its structure – one that posed more than a few challenges to its creators during its nascence. Breaking away from the confines of a traditionally round case, the case of the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti is created to offer something different from each angle it’s being looked at. The design process led to the engineering of a case that’s been called “a machining nightmare”, although it’s nothing but a perfect dream to look at.
“The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30 meters,” shares Büsser.
The machinery equals (if not rivals) its case in complexity. It’s not a stretch of the imagination by any means to say that the Serpenti comes to life in this metamorphosis. Spinning minute and hour dials make up the glowing eyes of the snake, poised on its wearer’s wrist as though to strike. The “brain” of this mechanical creature is embodied by a technically demanding, large-scale 14mm flying balance wheel. Anchoring this mechanism is a sculpted, three-dimensional balance bridge, elegantly engraved with the names of the two collaborating Maisons. For functionality, the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti integrates dual crowns — one dedicated to winding and the other to time-setting — embedded within the rear lugs of the timepiece.
“This piece was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce,” says Stigliani. “The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”
Any collectors aspiring to acquire this example of haute horlogerie have three versions to choose from. As MB&F is one of the only brands to retain the traditional practices of artisanal manufacturing (which involves hand-finishing components), only 99 pieces will be made, with watchmakers assembling 6-8 pieces per month – a testament to the rigorous craftsmanship it takes. The reptile’s three forms are as follows: in the first, titanium casing houses blue hour and minute domes while a second version uses 18 Karat rose gold as a foil for its green gaze. The third, fashioned from black PVD-coated stainless steel, holds a pair of captivating red eyes.
The Serpenti’s latest reincarnation is sure to wind its way into the minds of dedicated collectors as well as casual observers. A statement piece in all manners of speaking, it’s certain to be a showstopper wherever it goes.