It’s hip to be square

The concept of ‘trends’ is difficult to fit into something as small as a watch.

Unlike the runway, there’s limited space to experiment without diluting the intended function: to actually tell the time. Well, that, and to add a final flourish to your no doubt impeccable outfit.

Square watches however, have been one of the few recurring motifs. Almost every other year, Baselworld and SIHH (the fashion weeks of haute horlogerie, if you will) enjoy a wealth of punchy, square dialled pieces that stand shoulder-to-shoulder with their classic circular counterparts. And, if you weren’t already convinced to jump on the good ship parallelogram, allow our best in class to win you round – or square.

1 Larsson & Jennings

‘Swiss made’ isn’t always a marker for ‘incredibly expensive’. Instead, Larsson & Jennings takes the same level of craftsmanship, and combines it with affordability – and a very clean aesthetic that lends itself well to a square-shaped design.

Norse 18kt Gold-Plated Watch, AED1,390, matchesfashion.com

2 TAG Heuer

As, arguably, patient zero of the whole square watch quake, TAG Heuer’s Monaco has quite the CV: a visible in-house Calibre Heur 11 movement, a striking blue-red palette and a starring role on the wrist of Steve McQueen in Le Mans (1970).

Monaco Automatic Chronograph, AED22,150, mrporter.com

3 Rotary

Founded in 1895, Rotary has much experience in the art of watchmaking. And better yet, they do so at a fraction of the cost of its competitors, with the GS05280/01 pulling back on the details to let the square dial speak for itself.

GS05280/01, AED700, watchshop.com

4 Cartier

Though so often seen as a contemporary move, square watches are a lifelong friend. Cartier’s iconic Tank – a 1917 design inspired by the Renault war machines of the Western Front – boasts over 100 years of influence in the high end market. It’s not difficult to see why.

Tank Solo Watch, AED11,000 (approx), cartier.com

5 Hermès

Granted, Hermès’ long and winding equine history may seem at odds with a classic horological offering. But look to the Cape Cod, and there’s subtle references throughout, from the same hard-wearing high-quality leather on the strap, to the snaffle bit-inspired lugs.

Cape Cod Manufacture Watch, AED22,380, hermes.com

6 Tom Ford

Tom Ford’s foray into watches is a recent one. Still, with decades of experience crafting the finest in red carpet statement tailoring, you can expect the same thing from the wristwear: a clean, minimalist design on a classic square-shaped dial.

001 Stainless Steel Watch, AED9,100, mrporter.com

7 Nomos Glashütte

Haute horlogerie frequently follows a traditional vein. Look to Nomos Glashütte however, and there’s a different take, with the square dialled Tetra looking to both East Germany and the Bauhaus for artistic direction.

Tetra Reference 408, AED7,740, nomos-gashutte.com

8 Rado

If most Swiss watches are to be worn by men at the top of their field/office block, then Rado does exactly the same – just if said men were in the year 2065. Yes, the Ceramica – a square-dialled well-made automatic – melds a wearable design with the manufacture’s signature (and covetable) futurism.

Ceramica Automatic, AED9,900, rado.com

9 Bell & Ross

Blue-sky thinking: an overused trope of business-spiel, and something Bell & Ross actually does with a series of square watches inspired by the grand air force of France.

BR03-92 Automatic, AED14,900, mrporter.com

10 Baume & Mercier

Few brands are as enduring as Baume & Mercier. Eschewing sports-led modernity in favour of a classic, fail-safe tangent, these are the watches that’ll last both mechanically and aesthetically. The Hampton is no exception.

Hampton Men’s Watch, AED9,300, Baume & Mercier

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