To mark the beginning of its 150th anniversary celebrations, Swiss Haute Horlogerie manufacturer Audemars Piguet has unveiled a new generation of self-winding perpetual calendars—by introducing a new movement (and retiring an old one).
Thanks to this new movement (calibre 7138—which took five years and five patents to create) any adjustments to the new watches’ functions (date, day, month, and year) can now all be done via the piece’s crown, eliminating a lot of fiddling with pushers that typifies the complex perpetual calendar movement.
This movement’s “all-in-one” crown arrangement makes its debuts in several of AP’s most popular models including two 41mm Royal Oak models (one in stainless steel and the other in 18ct sand gold); and in a 18ct white gold 41mm Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet model.
Part of the roll-out also includes a limited edition “anniversary” piece which will feature the outgoing perpetual calendar movement—the calibre 5135. This Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked “150th Anniversary”, is to be produced in a run of 150, with an openworked design.
It’s a strong start to what will no doubt be a pillar year for the revered Maison—one eye clearly looking towards on the next 150 years, while the other still taking inspiration from its past.
Rethinking the workings of the perpetual calendar is no easy feat. Traditional perpetual calendar wristwatches are usually equipped with correctors inserted in the side of the case, which are normally activated by using a small tool to adjust the various subdials. This age-old system can make it cumbersome to set the watch, especially when left unwound for some time. Reexamining how it works, and ‘simplifying’ its functionality into a single all-in-one crown arrangement showcasing the continuation of innovation within the House, as well as opening up new technical, creative and design horizons.
The result? An intuitive complication that revolutionises the perpetual calendar experience while improving legibility. “Astronomical watches have shaped Audemars Piguet’s world since 1875,” says Ilaria Resta, Audemars Piguet’s CEO, “but now as we celebrate 150 years of remarkable craftsmanship and innovation, we have created a true mechanical breakthrough blending technical complexity and simplicity of use.”