The term ‘grail watches’ is being thrown around more and more these days. This makes sense due to the demand for buying and collecting timepieces is currently at an all-time high, while the supply of many mechanical watches is still recovering from a pandemic-impacted slow-down.
What are a ‘grail watches’? Essentially, it is a shorthand term used by watch collectors for prohibitively expensive, extremely rare or sought-after timepieces. The use of the word ‘grail’ comes from the mythical ‘Holy Grail’ that was believed to be an extremely rare artifact.
While people’s tastes (and bank balances) can dictate their own personal ‘grail watches’, the below list is a more widely-accepted list of timepieces that are sought-after by watch collectors:
1. Rolex Submariner
This timeless classic is an icon of luxury watches. Rolex first launched this diving watch in 1953 with the Submariner being the first divers’ wristwatch to be waterproof to a depth of 100 metres – the depth that has since been extended to 300m. It has a classic look with a date display window, luminescent hands and markers, and features a stainless steel design with a black unidirectional bezel. Due to the reliability and quality of Rolex’s watchmaking, Submariners tend to retain their value, making it a highly sought-after piece.
2. Rolex Daytona
The Rolex Daytona is a classic chronograph watch that traditionally features a stainless steel case and a tachymeter bezel. Named after the famous US racetrack Daytona, the timepiece was designed to be the ultimate timing tool for endurance racing drivers. The chronograph allows the driver to measure elapsed time, which is displayed in hours, minutes and seconds on the dial. The design is iconic, with its signature three-piece link integrated bracelet and its signature oyster case. This watch is a symbol of luxury for any watch collector.
3. Patek Philippe Nautilus
With the rounded octagonal shape of its bezel, the ingenious porthole construction of its case, and its horizontally embossed dial, the Nautilus has epitomized the elegant sports watch since 1976. Forty years later the Patek Philippe Nautilus continues to remain a symbol of sophistication and style, and is a highly sought after luxury watch for both men and women. Patek Philippe only produces 60,000 timepieces per year (unlike Rolex which does more than one million) and therefore its pieces are harder to come by and thus relatively rare more exclusive.
4. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is a modern classic and a trendsetter in watch design. Famously sketched out on a paper napkin by the godfather of watch design, Gerald Genta, this watch features an octagonal case and an integrated stainless steel bracelet. It is powered by an automatic movement, making it both accurate and stylish. The enduring appeal of the Royal Oak has been the bedrock on which Audemars Piguet has built a two-billion Franc empire upon.
5. Omega Speedmaster
Colloquially known as the ‘moon watch’, the Omega Speedmaster is one of the industry’s most beloved watches as it was the first (and only) watch to be worn on the Moon. Back in 1969 the chronograph was selected by NASA to accompany its astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission to the Moon. The iconic chronograph watch features a stainless steel case, a black tachymeter bezel, and a three-piece link bracelet. It is powered by an automatic movement, making it both stylish and accurate.
6. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso
Breaking the stream of steel sports watches, the subtle Art Deco inspired design of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso has always made this classic timepiece stand out. However, what truly sets the Reverso apart is its unique, pioneering reversable case. Built with polo players in mind, the watch-side case can be flipped over to protect the case from being scratched or smashed. Over the decades the Reverso continues to showcase JLC’s elite level of elegant craftsmanship at its most creative, inventive and innovative and has housed more than 50 different calibres.
7. Cartier Tank
Inspired by the military vehicles of the First World War, the Cartier Tank has been a design icon since it was first introduced in 1917. Back then pocket watches were very much in fashion, and the Cartier Tank stood out as one of the first wristwatches. Now a timeless classic and a symbol of luxury, there have been countless variations of this iconic rectangular cased watch, and that unmistakable Cartier dial design.
8. Breitling Navitimer
The Navitimer, became the world’s de-facto pilot’s watch after it was introduced by Breitling in 1952. Developed for the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, it was an innovative wrist-worn instrument that enabled pilots to perform all necessary flight calculations, including average speed, distance traveled, fuel consumption, rate of climb or descent, and conversion of miles to kilometers or nautical miles. Since then, the Navitimer has been a pillar of the Breitling collection and has been fitted with the brand’s most complicated and prestigious movements.
9. IWC Portuguese
The origin of the most recognizable IWC wristwatch dates back to the end of the 1930s when two Portuguese businessmen visited IWC HQ in Switzerland to propose developing a large, stainless steel wristwatch housing a movement that could match the precision of a marine chronometer. The solution was to create the first wristwatch that used a pocket watch movement. At 42mm it was enormous for the time, and was a precursor of today’s big-sized wristwatches.
10. A. Lange & Sohne Datograph
The Datograph is particularly famous for its movement architecture, finish and unconventional dial and case design. A truly high-end, fully in-house chronograph, it not only incorporated an out-sized date, but the freshly re-established German brand also challenged the traditional placement of the sub-dials at three and nine.
11. TAG Heuer Carrera
TAG Heuer’s relationship with motorsports runs deep and, with it, its connection to the chronograph. In fact, chronographs are what the watchmaker is known for. One of its most popular timepieces is the Carrera, which appeared in the Sixties, named for the hair-raising Carrera Panamericana motor rally of the Fifties. Today, Carrera’s belong to the most highly sought after sport’s models from the 1960s.