Coming to Dubai: Sartoria Giuliva
Gerardo Cavaliere and Vittorio D’Agostino, two young Italian guys from Salerno, are heading over to Dubai for the first time next month, bringing their trunks of Italian fabrics with them. The young tailors, who’s co-own their own tailoring house Sartoria Giuliva, will give UAE men a chance to get their hands on one of their fine Neapolitan bespoke suits for the very first time. The trunk show will be held at DIFC’s Capital Club, but before they arrive, why don’t we get to know them a little bit first?
Tell us a bit about how you started…where did you first meet?
Vittorio: We both grew up in Salerno and we crossed paths more than 15 years ago, when we were students. We have always had a great passion for elegance and an even greater respect for the Italian costume tradition.
Did you study design?
Gerardo: I have a law degree and I work as a lawyer in Rome. Since I was a kid I have been in touch with the sartorial tradition. I remember very well when I was used to accompany my grandfather to his tailor and see the process needed to sew a suit, from the selection of the fabrics, to the selection of the styles, the first and second try and the delivery of the suit. He’s been the one who initiated me into this noble art. I didn’t need to study design because I had learnt everything I needed to know about tailoring in my home. My uncle has been a tailor of the real Neapolitan tradition since the 1950s.
Vittorio: No, I haven’t studied design either, and I think it has little relevance with what we do and with tailoring. I gained experience in the workshops, watching and listening to the master tailors.
What made you join forces to start a tailoring company?
Gerardo: We immediately shared our passion for tailoring at the time we spent in an old shop of a tailor we both loved. On every suit that we ordered we’d make our own personal mark and in that moment we decided to found a tailoring company that could reflect our way of life through the creation of a suit.
What’s so special about Neapolitan tailoring?
Gerardo: The immediate recognition of lines, shapes and proportions. And the care for every single detail.
Vittorio: The softness of the jacket, which is structureless and famous for this all over the world.
What are the rules you stick to when tailoring a Neapolitan suit?
Vittorio: The Neapolitan jacket is without frills. It’s an every day essential. The shoulder is empty and without support. The lapel is at least 10 cm wide and needs to cover the breast cover at least for a ¼. The collar is high. Narrow armholes. High cran and the front pence reaches the bottom, so the jacket can twiddle when it’s open (typical of the Neapolitan tradition). The trousers have a slim fit and our style has a double pleat starting 2 cm down the waistline, unlined and features internal buttoning like the old times.
What made you want to come over to Dubai?
Gerardo: The desire to export the Neapolitan tradition in a world that cares about quality and the exclusivity of bespoke products.
Where do you source your fabrics?
Vittorio: One of our priorities is the research of fabrics. The range that we propose is top-notch and really wide, going from Drapers and Dormeuil to Holland & Sherry and Loro Piana. Cachemire, alpaca, cotton, linen, vicunia, flannel, shetland, tweed, velvet, sear suckers, wool.
What makes Sartoria Giuliva stand out from other tailors?
Gerardo: The concept of “giulivismo” is a light-hearted approach to life, but framed with some essential rules that are premised on respect understood in an absolute sense. We made the passion for tailoring a way of life and, more recently, our work. Wearing a Giuliva suit means not only wearing a hand-sewn suit, but also embodying our way of living.
Any advice you’d give men in Dubai having a bespoke made?
Vittorio: I would recommend the dress suitable for the intended use and so to choose what you really need and not what pleases you immediately. A Neapolitan tailored suit, is not merely fashion but respects the canons of classicism that will last forever. A custom-made suit is a timeless suit intended to accompany you for a lifetime and become a memory like a photograph. Countless patterns and colors usually brings the client to choose the fabric that he likes, but it is better to stick to what he needs the suit for: a formal meeting, a casual dinner or an informal invitation on a boat and so on.
How long does it take to make a suit?
Vittorio: About a month with one or two intermediate tests. Time is a hallmark of tailoring and an essential element for anyone who wants to wear a made-to-measure hand-sewn suit.
Suits start from Dhs10,000. Gerardo Cavaliere and Vittorio D’Agostino will be available to take bespoke orders on December 10 from 4:30 pm to 9pm at Capital Club DIFC, and on December 11 and 12 all day at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers Hotel.