THE OFFICE OF GIUSEPPE SANTONI, the CEO of the Santoni shoe brand, at its headquarters in Marche on the Adriatic coast of Italy, is a tidy, sparse affair that could almost double as a boutique. Facing the large desk is a display of shoes and luggage adorned with fabric from Rubelli, one of Santoni’s frequent collaborators. In the background, meanwhile, neatly presented on the shelves are some of the latest designs from the brand, and to boost the air of masculinity, a heavy tome on classic watches and another on vintage cars – two of Giuseppe’s major interests. But there is no questioning the real focus here. “Shoes are very important,” he tells us, as a general point and not just a reason to buy into the brand. “Shoes tell you who you are.”
When elaborating, Giuseppe bases his theories on a lifetime of growing up in a region made famous for its shoe industry. His father, Andrea Santoni, who can still be found wandering around the factory checking everything is in order, started the company in 1975, appointing Giuseppe as CEO in 1990. “As men, we are often very formal, and do not enjoy the range of colour or jewellery that women often do in terms of how they dress,” he says. “It means that our accessories, such as a watch or a car, are what help to make a statement about ourselves, and shoes are a part of that.”
Giuseppe’s father had always favoured traditional shoe-making techniques, maintaining quality at a time when his competitors only focused on price. Much of this philosophy is still evident when looking around the factory. Artisans busy themselves crafting and hand-stitching the shoes, others meticulously examining the leather, including calf skin, deer and crocodile. And when required, a team of young art graduates hand-paint the finished product in shades or red, or perhaps the signature Santoni blue. “We use classic techniques, but we are contemporary in terms of look and feel,” Giuseppe explains. “We are fresh, we are not boring, and we do not make an old-looking shoe. At the moment we may not be the most famous name, but we will become the most reliable; a quality brand, and one that is value for money.”
Clearly it is the construction of the product that Giuseppe is hoping will speak for itself, and help develop the brand globally, rather than resorting to marketing gimmicks. In the Middle East, Santoni has a dedicated boutique in Doha, and is available in Dubai through branches of Rodeo Drive, with plans for its own stores in the city on the way. “We have a few subtle touches that make our shoes recognisable,” says Giuseppe. “For example, as well as the hand-painted exterior, we have the orange interior and sole. Our customers are not show-offs, so they aren’t looking for crazy, outlandish designs. But if I add something unique, a little twist that nobody else will see, they will like that. We are a smart company, we pay attention to detail, and details make all the difference.”
It is these details, along with innovation, that play an emphasis in the current collection. As well as the collaborations with Rubelli, AMG (for a range of driving shoes), IWC for watch straps, and both formal shoes and trainers, Santoni is certainly not a one-trick pony. One innovation that particularly impresses is the layer of cork that sits between the sole and the interior, moulding its shape to the wearer’s foot over time. And as Giuseppe assures us, it does not end there. “In the office we are working on our spring/summer 2015 line,” he says, “and we are delivering the winter line into shops now. But our focus is on making a shoe that is formal, light in terms of weight and the way it looks. Think a classic, formal shoe you can wear with a suit or jacket, but not a pair of normal boring shoes.”
This lighter construction is something evidenced in the factory, known as the Goodyear-Bologna, which is clearly gaining popularity with the amount of activity around the machines. “We are always open to new technologies” Giuseppe concludes, “and we do a lot of research into new materials. Last year, we presented leather that stretches. It’s very comfortable, like it is elasticated, and not with the stiffness you would usually find from a new material. Nobody else does this, and that’s how we create demand. Our customers pay attention to our development, and they know that when we come out with a collection, there is always something new going on, or some kind of innovation. As a company we’re not only a fashion brand that creates something design-led; there’s always somebody thinking how to make it better.”
More info at www.santonishoes.com