In a striking display of Arab design and French luxury, Nadine Kanso – the creative force behind Arab jewellery brand ‘Bil Arabi’ – has collaborated with luxury house, Berluti to create a captivating limited-edition set of leather goods featuring a bespoke Kanso design.
Known for her unique aesthetic that blends modern style with traditional Arabic calligraphy, Kanso’s hand-engraved design adds a meaningful regional touch to some of Berluti’s most iconic leather men’s bags, including the rolling suitcase, backpack and wallet.
The collaboration marks a significant milestone for Kanso, who has been making waves in the jewellery industry since launching ‘Bil Arabi’ in 2006. This is her first foray into the world of luxury leather goods, and the results are nothing short of spectacular.
The designer has created a unique pattern to be engraved on Berluti’s high-quality leather bags, adding a touch of Middle East flair to the French brand’s renowned craftsmanship.
The limited-edition collection showcases the perfect blend of Kanso’s artistic vision and Berluti’s dedication to quality and luxury. Ahead of the release of the collection, Kanso speaks exclusively to Esquire Middle East to discuss the driving force behind the collaboration of their respective cultural heritages.
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Full disclosure, Nadine, this is a collaboration that we didn’t see coming, but we are really glad it did. Did working with Berluti feel like a good fit for you?
Absolutely. We worked on the project for a year, and what I love about Berluti is its attention to detail. Although, I must admit, even though it is such a world-renowned brand, the entire process felt very intimate. We built up a strong human connection that it felt like working with a family member.
When collaborating, how difficult is it to work within a brand’s parameters?
It can be a challenge, as some brands have quite strict guidelines of what you can or can’t do. This wasn’t the case with Berluti – it was very clear that they respect the process and the designer, and so they gave me complete freedom to create from their inspiration. In return for their trust, I ended up creating three different designs rather than one, so they could choose the one they thought was best in-line with their brand.
So, tell us about the design?
It is based around the Arabic word ‘kun’, which means ‘to be’. Now not only is the first letter of Berluti a ‘B’, but central to the brand’s ethos is offering a sense of self and belonging. Being a Berluti customer is like being part of a special club, or a family, so I wanted to represent that in the design. ‘Kun’ allows you to be part of the Berluti circle, which is why the design is circular with the Arabic words around it are all linked together.
Which piece of the collection do you have your eye on?
We are actually going to do a cigar box, with the logo I designed on it. I love that idea! It looks so elegant.
Berluti is a men’s brand, whereas for Bil Arabi, you have predominately a female audience. So what was the appeal to work together?
Although it’s a men’s brand, I like wearing Berluti, it is something that I feel comfortable in. I think it comes down to the meticulous way the brand goes about the quality and craftsmanship of its products – that is something that speaks to me, which goes beyond gender lines.
Speaking of gender lines, this collab marks the first time Berluti has worked with a designer from this region. And to do so with a female designer is not only a statement for them, but a glowing endorsement of your abilities…
…and also it’s an endorsement for the region, I think. This part of the world has so much to offer, and I think people are starting to catch on to that.
Now, normally your designs are with precious metals. Did working with leather provide any surprises?
Not really. When you are designing, whether it will be eventually translated into leather or jewellery, it is still the idea that matters. Obviously when it comes to leather, they have the best artisans who tattoo and hand-carve the designs, as do I when I made my jewellery pieces.
What is your biggest learning from this project?
You’re always learning, especially when you’re allowed insight into a field that isn’t your own. I was lucky to be invited twice by Berluti to France to see the tailoring and the shoemaking, and even though I know that it is all hand-made, it is still pretty mind-blowing to see just how much detail goes into it all, from the treatment of the leather on the last, to the first to final stitch it reminds you of the very skill required to perfect the craft. I loved attending the shoe atelier, I’m not saying that I’ll ever branch into making shoes, but it is inspiring to learn. If I can learn something every day until I die, that would be a blessing.