Matagi Dubai is a high-end Japanese restaurant located in the recently re-flagged Raffles The Palm Dubai (previously known as Emerald Palace Kempinski).
While the city has no shortage of posh Japanese cuisine, Matagi might just be in its element considering the location; it joins the W Hotel’s Akira Back Dubai as one of the only two Asian restaurants on the Palm’s west frond.
Captive audience aside, the restaurant aims to pair fresh Japanese ingredients (flown in daily from just outside Tokyo) with an intimate atmosphere and food served to an up-beat DJ track and the shaking of cocktails.
But is it worth a visit?
Matagi Dubai: Atmosphere
Entry into Raffles The Palm Dubai can be a bit of a shock; especially if you are not used floor-to-ceiling 24-karat gold-foil. Throw in a chandelier made from 40,000 Swarovski crystals, and you’ll wish you had brought your sunglasses.
Fortunately, Matagi Dubai offers visual sanctuary – it’s all dark wood, atmospheric lighting and low-key beats. There’s a bar area in one corner for a quick tipple before dinner, along with high-tables for groups and a spacious main dining area.
The walls are decorated with Japanese ceiling tiles in various arrangements, along with a smattering of Asian flair (think red wooden drums, a Buddha figurine or two, paper lanterns hanging from the ceiling). It’s a tad corny for sure, but not unobtrusive to the eyes.
Matagi Dubai: Food
Matagi airs on the more traditional of Japanese cuisine: that means no crazy sushi rolls or eclectic Asian-fusion styles dishes. That’s no bad thing, especially with the restaurant’s pledge of fresh Japanese ingredients.
Instead you get a menu of staples: Miso soup, grilled edamame, salmon tataki, and a selection of sashimi (raw or marinated). Yes, they are all given some fine-dining flair (dots of ponzu truffle jelly here, some wasabi pea puree there) but these dishes are authentic at their core.
Starters are meant to be shared, as is the main event – most of which involves a Robata charcoal grill. Expect dishes of black cod, Chilean seabass and a selection of A-grade Wagyu meat seared over a hot flame, and then served simply, with a dollop of sauce and an enoki mushroom or two.
It’s all very tasty, but standout dishes include the Hamachi crudo, wagyu gyoza, short rib bao and the 72-hour slow-cooked short ribs (served with a generous shaving of black truffle).
Matagi Dubai: Verdict
Matagi doesn’t try and break the Japanese mould; nor does it need to. The food is very good – helped no doubt by those fresh ingredients – and it’s worth visiting with a few dining partners (so you can sample a few more dishes).