With the Grand Palais stripped back to an empty shell and guests seated in a circle, it only felt fitting that Alexandre Mattiussi’s AMI for SS20 would showcase a collection full of classic, timeless minimalism. Simple silhouettes and neutral tones dominated the runway where models of all genders looked like an army of uniformity.
In past seasons, we have usually seen an array of graphic knits or playful embroidery to work with at AMI Paris but this time around it was a clean sweep of elevated basics in wool, denim or cotton. Colours ranged from black on black, white, beige, a sharp red or a burst of fluorescent fuchsia.
The French designer however does normally flirt with the conventions of Parisian elegance, androgyny and is always about the cut, fabric consideration and use of colour. His genderless aesthetic could be seen in his ample leather trench coats buttoned to the neck, his unbuttoned shirts tucked into relaxed tailored trousers or the many sleeveless layers and tank tops on display.
This ultra-sleek simplicity and a collection full of wardrobe staples will surely continue to sell out across the globe and cement the brand’s success as a heavyweight of French independent fashion.
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