Recent years has seen the men’s grooming / barbershop market explode with a new barbers seemingly opening every other week. But are any of them any good? Sure they look flash and have some trendy sofas, but what is their story and can they really get away with charging AED180 for a haircut?
Being experts in the field, the well-groomed and hirsuted Esquire Middle East team has taken it upon themselves to definitely investigate Dubai’s best barbershops and report back. Below are our findings:
[Note: this list is not-exhaustive and will be regularly updated as more barbershops open.]
Pankhurst
Pankhurst is more speakeasy than barbershop. Purpose-built for you to disappear into where the vibe is more akin to a private member’s club; the conversation is sharp; the aesthetics are elevated; and the music is born from the seeds of rock’n’roll.
It’s a formula that the London-founded barbershop has built an enviable reputation atop, and one that its owner— Brent Pankhurst—hopes he can replicate in Dubai.
While the new salon is tailored to the region’s head-to-toe grooming demands, the centerpiece of it is unquestionably its barbershop. Demonstrating a pleasing level of self-awareness, Pankhurst’s has kitted it out with four vintage Belmont barber chairs—all created as part of an exclusive collaboration with Bentley Motors, with the hand-stitched leather upcycled from classic Bentley cars. Of the six that exist in the world, four of them are in the new Dubai shop.
The Bentley collaboration is less a splashy marketing stunt, and more testament to the status that Pankhurst has built around his own name and reputation. As a young barber he honed his skills in various well-to-do haunts in London’s fancy West End, finessing the trade, building a client list, and —most importantly—gaining a genuine understanding of what a luxury means and what a savvy client list wants.
Pankhurst Barbershop, Hotel Fairmont The Palm, Dubai. Tel: +971 4 457 3501
Chaps & Co.
When a barbershop is trusted by its clientele, it becomes more than a place to get a fade or shape your beard. It becomes an institution. Over the years, Chaps & Co has earned that title with an impassioned client list calling for more and more outlets, not only in the UAE, but now in Saudi Arabia and New York.
I’ll always remember Chaps & Co. was one of my first port of calls post Covid lockdown. I knew it was a standard that I could trust to do things right. That haircut became more than a trim, it became an indication that by the time we got the chance to do it again things around us ‘out there’ will have improved.
For some it was too much, and succumbed to either doing it themselves (brave!), or to have their partner do it for them (even braver!), while others saw that long-awaited trip to the barbershop evolve from a matter of aesthetic upkeep and a social respite, into a symbol of freedom.
Avoiding the garish white lights and clinical surfaces of many modern barbershops, Chaps & Co’s aesthetic opts for a signature dark wood-paneled, leather-trimmed décor and Takara Belmont chairs. You’re not there for a haircut, you’re there for an experience.
Beyond the vibe, the most important part of a barbershops is – you’ve guessed it – the barbers, a team which has been assembled from all over the world, with experts packing their scissors and blades from the UK to the Philippines.
While there are now several Chaps & Co locations across Dubai, my favourite is its smallest outlet – located within Reform Social & Grill in the suburban community of The Lakes.
Sure, the small, three-chair size of it makes it less easy to get a guaranteed slot on short notice, however, the shop’s budding bromance with the British gastropub next door allows anyone who has booked a haircut to order from a special ‘Dude Food’ menu for an additional AED50. You can also order off the drinks menu too.
Despite its size, this suburban outpost of Chaps & Co. still maintains the aesthetics and hallmarks of the UAE-born brand—but does so with an understanding that its clientele may be a little different from those who flock to its Dubai Design District or JLT locations.
Making up part of The Lakes community centre, punters here almost exclusively come from the surrounding family-friendly areas of Meadows, Springs and Emirates Hills. The interior is slick, with those trademarked straight-edge razors still decorating the dark wood walls.
The barbers are smartly dressed with dark trousers, white shirts, hygiene masks and gloves, while the speakers blare out a carefully considered playlist (think The White Stripes, more than Jason Derulo). Unlike other locations, the normal dark ‘mancave’ aesthetic is replaced with a showering of natural sunlight coming from the large glass windows. All of that makes for an evolved Chaps & Co. aesthetic, one that is more for the ‘cool young dad’ aesthetic.
Chaps & Co. Reform Grill, The Lakes, Dubai. Tel: +971 4 551 6192
BO Barbershop
″I wouldn’t suggest—or do—anything to a client that I wouldn’t do to my father,” says Oliver Zaitoun, co-founder of BO Barbershop, as he wraps a cold towel around my face to reduce any potential inflammation his cutthroat razor may have on my newly shorn neck. The conversation is flowing as thick as my in-need-ofhacking-down mane: “Although we can make a good markup on hot wax treatments or colouring someone’s beard, I don’t believe it’s the right thing to do. If you’re just in it to try to and make some quick money then people won’t trust you, and we trade off that trust. Giving bad advice to clients will only cause me—and them—problems in a few years’ time!” Zaitoun says with a laugh, but the message is crystal clear.
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Tucked away in The Bay Gate building in Dubai’s Business Bay, you are unlikely to stumble across BO Barbershop, but since it opened in September 2020 growing its clientele has not really been an issue. “There are a few drop-ins, but most of our clients are Oliver’s clients that he has built up in the five years he’s been in Dubai,” explains Bilal Kabbani. “He is so respected in the industry here that people will gladly stay loyal and support him. He actually used to be my barber!”
In terms of the shop’s name, Bilal is the ‘B’ to Oliver’s ‘O’. Kabbani is very much the business side of the partnership, which frees Zaitoun up to express his craft and trade off his obvious charisma. Formerly working for world’s oldest barbers, Truefitt & Hill, Zaitoun’s 20 years in the business has seen him train barbers in Lebanon, Malaysia and London, before introducing the Dubai market to the intricacies of the ‘hot towel shave’ at Akin barbershop on Sheikh Zayed Road. Now, thanks to the support of his loyal client list—including Kabbani—he has now (quite literally) his name on the door.
The small space houses three barber chairs in a wonderfully clean and bright aesthetic— one that is more homely and welcoming than it is clinical. Enhancing the space’s unique high ceilings, is a two-storey open bookcase that is populated with plants, a sample of grooming products, a Jerry can and a small selection of books and t-shirts— which focus on hiking. Kabbani and Zaitoun first bonded over their passion for surfing and the wilderness.
“We wanted the shop to reflect on who we are, and not just a shrine to cutting hair,” explains Kabbani. “Making something that reflects our interests was an important thing to make it feel homely and organic. We have just ordered a really cool custom surfboard for the shop!” It comes as little surprise then that the products used in the shop are provided by Davines—an Italian company known for its sustainability and chemical-free products—because, quite simply, at BO Barbershop they wouldn’t use anything that they wouldn’t use themselves.
BO Barbershop, The Bay Gate, Business Bay, Dubai. Tel: +971 58 999 2614
Shave Barbers & Spa
We’re going to let you in on a little secret: when it comes to grooming, having a clear vision of what you want is imperative to the end result. If given specific instruction, any good skilled barber should be able to have you leaving the chair with a fresh cut and a spring in your step. However, it takes an exceptional barbershop to anticipate all the other little elements that you may not even be aware you want. Aesthetic, chat, coffee, comfort, music, quality of service and vibes, to name a few.
At Shave Barbers & Spa, this is less a secret and more a business model. The sleek barbershop has been a revelation in its native city of Madrid (currently with seven locations), and last month opened its first locations in Dubai with two branches—City Walk, and the Hyde Hotel.
While the service and aesthetics are inspired by the 1940s, Shave has a look and feel that is very modern and very at ease. The navy, white and gold colour palette perfectly navigates the line of clinical and leisure.
“There are a lot of barbers that tend to either lean into that traditional old school leather aesthetic, or more of a gritty-cool, Harley Davidson vibe,” explains founder Sami Azrak. “We wanted to create a more modern, elegant space for men that feels exclusive but is also inclusive.”
Key to Shave’s success in doing this has been by offering the entire gamut of men’s grooming services not usually available in traditional barbershops, including facials, mani-pedis and massage treatments (currently only available in its Hyde Hotel location). However, while they may have capitalized on the increasing demand (and lack of competition) in these areas in Spain, in the UAE the competition and knowledge
in this space is rife.
“Shave salons are designed for today’s man who has internalized the cult of the body and image and wants to take care of himself and make it part of his leisure time,” explains Azrak, as he checks over the first of his international outposts, before divulging that once the brand is established in Dubai, his vision is to roll out his popular ‘Shave Club’ membership service—creating a community of like-minded men each who share his same vision.
Shave Barbers & Spa, City Walk, Dubai. theshaveclub.ae
Chivalry Gentlemen’s Salon
More than a place to pop in for a quick haircut, Chivalry Salon prides itself on its holistic care of all its patrons, serving more as a hub catering to the luxury lifestyle it represents. The establishment has just celebrated its ten year anniversary, marking a decade of immaculate customer service.
Chivalry Salon, in its mission statement, is all about the four Cs: Charm, Charisma, Character, and the fourth you can probably guess. The salon prides itself on a meticulous attention to detail, both in grooming, as well as the selection of their employees. Each barber is carefully hand picked according to a number of factors, a natural sense of hospitality being the top priority.
The barbershop is one of the most reputable in the region, and they credit this success to their exclusive clientele of gentlemen and loyal patrons. The relationship fostered between barber and client is unmatched, transcending a simple transactional exchange. Barbers are careful to follow the instruction of patrons whilst also offering suggestions along the way, enabling clients to explore new looks they may have missed out on at a traditional barbershop.
As stated before, Chivalry does truly excel not only in grooming but as a holistic luxury lifestyle brand. It is a guarantee and promise from the salon that everyone who patronises the establishment will always leave happy and satisfied.
Boasting top of the line service, products, and an elegant interior to boot, Chivalry offers an experience that wont be replicated anywhere else. Chivalry’s associations and partnerships have been with leading brands including Hublot, Christian Louboutin and Dolce & Gabbana just to name a few.
The upscale salon not only transcends your look, but also your mood.
Chivalry Gentleman’s Salon, Tower 1, South Ridge, Dubai. Tel: +971 4 368 9476
Barberia Italiana
“Your hair looks nice. Did you just have it done?” compliments my wife. I am taken a little aback. I sit in silence for a beat too long before responding with a somewhat suspicious “Yes… thank you”. You see, it’s not that a new haircut is a bad thing or a highly guarded secret, but more that I could not remember the last time my wife complemented a haircut I’ve had. I was flummoxed. What did she want?
As it turns out, nothing. She was genuinely in favour of the new trim. As was I. And although I do like to revel in a complement, I can take little credit for it, it was the work ‘Mo’ a rather talented barber at the recently opened Barbaria Italiana Gent’s Salon in Dubai Marina.
Barbaria Italiana is another addition to the booming men’s barbershop scene in the UAE where a new ultra-stylish and leather-sofa clad salon seemingly pops-up every month in an attempt to woo a growing audience of trend-savvy, Athleisure-wearing men on the hunt for a new fade.
The second of two properties (the original in Dubai’s Mercato Mall, and a third being planned for DIFC later this year), is the brainchild of Vincenzo Spina, a young and ambitious Tuscan who moved to Dubai having opened branches of the salon in Milan, Bergamo, Brescia and his hometown of Cremona. Noticing an upturn in men wanting to spend more on their upkeep, he wanted to create a comfortable space where men can relax and enjoy a more upmarket “Italian style and service” to the grooming experience.
While, we’re not entirely sure as to what makes it a particularly Italian experience – the ambiance is chilled, the barbers (most of who are from the region) are fun (and stylish) and the espresso is on point. Oh, and according to my wife (and her new shoes), the haircuts are pretty good too.
Barberia Italiana Gents Salon, Dorra Bay Tower, Dubai Marina. Tel: +971 4 3360024
PDL Barbershop
What links coffee, cycling and haircuts? No, this is not the set-up for an amusing one-liner, but a conundrum I am trying to figure out while reclined, eyes-closed in a Belmont barber’s chair, at Pdl.
For the purpose of context, Pdl (pronounced ‘pedal’), is an understated cycling-themed café with an attached barbershop located on Dubai’s Sheikh Zayed Road. Founded by three Dubai-born friends just over a year ago, Pdl represents their combined passions and while those three things may not seem like the most obvious combination of interests, it does allow it to earn the label as a ‘first-of-its-kind’ concept.
The barbershop aesthetic is refreshingly stripped-back and simple with earthy tones and metallic piping giving it an industrial-chic vibe. Anything that is mounted to the sparse exposed concrete walls tends to be related to cycling, with a design-led quirk. And, yes, there is a road bike mounted on the wall.
The barbers, all in their twenties, are dressed in a casual uniform of white t-shirt and black jeans with rips on the knees, snipping away while a steady soundtrack of New York hip-hop plays in the background. The mood is relaxed with the staff just as happy to shoot the breeze as they are content to let you sit in silence. Karim – the guy giving my beard the attention of a man trying to split an atom – wears his black Yankees cap backwards, and occasionally raps a couple of bars under his breath.
While stopping to sip my flat-white delivered from the next door Pdl coffeeshop, we get up to rinse my hair, I point out a pool table in the corner and ask Karim if that’s for the staff or customers, he laughs and says both. It’s not uncommon for regulars to spend a good few hours here pre- or post- tune-up.
Somewhere between snipping away my progressively graying temples and Karim talking about the private mani-pedi room (where you can watch shows on Netflix), it dawns upon me that what combines the three is a sense of community. All three, coffee, cycling and haircuts all have an inherent social element to them. The experiences are all public and private; they are all individual and communal; they all offer escapism and a focal point – perhaps that’s what makes Pdl the ‘first-of-its-kind’
PDL Barbershop Mardoof Building, Sheikh Zayed Road. Tel: +971 04 3339924.
Julian’s
Before they broke ground on the Dubai Marina; before the first sketches of Burj Khalifa were drawn; before ‘Friday Brunch’ was a thing; Julian Colclough was cutting hair in Dubai. Twenty-three years in the UAE is certainly long enough to warrant being considered for icon status, but the softly-spoken Englishman doesn’t seem to put too much emphasis on his longevity.
“It’s gone by so quickly,” he says snipping away from the adjacent barber’s chair. “We’ve just always tried to offer a great service while keeping the atmosphere relaxed.” That relaxed atmosphere (and humility) has been key to Colclough’s continuance since he decided to branch out in 2003 and open his own self-titled barbershop in Jumeira. Like anything that exists for more than five years in Dubai, Julian’s has had to adapt to the aggressively changing pace of life in the emirate—in 2016 the shop moved from Village Mall in Jumeira, to the Arenco Tower in the newer Dubai Media City.
While recent years has seen the local barbershop market flood with slick, heavy-stylised offerings, Julian’s tries to negotiate the line between staying current, while remaining true to its core value of offering ‘British barbering’ to an expat community.
Dressed in the shop’s ‘uniform’ of jeans, untucked shortsleeved white shirts, and loose skinny black ties, all four barbers glide around the Belmont barber chairs occupied by a predominately British clientele chatting away. All of this happens under the somewhat gaze of kooky framed pictures of Ernest Hemmingway, Pablo Escobar, the Monty Python crew and Bill Murray in Caddyshack. The large windowed shopfront gives the space a bright and welcoming feel, with a mixture of pastel coloured walls, clean white titles and herringbone parquet wooden flooring offering a very British touchpoint.
“Julian is a classic British barber,” says Hussein Ghazal of his boss. The Syrian barber is one of the shop’s newest recruits, his background masked by a thick northern English accent. “He has long had a loyal customer base here, but is becoming more open to newer ideas.” Some of those new ideas include later opening hours, opening on Fridays and offering services such as threading and waxing. According to Hussein the changes are starting to bear fruit, enticing in a new generation of expats to Julian’s perhaps proving that even in Dubai, longevity still counts for something.
Julian’s, Shop No.3, Arenco Tower, Media City, Dubai. Tel: +971 4 4473188
Akin At The Beach
Cool. It is a simple word, and one that people tend to overlook due to the need to constantly overhype things. The truth is no word describes the Akin barbershop better than that, and no part of that is left to chance.
Akin At The Beach is the second outlet of the slick, Dubai-grown men’s chop shop. In contrast to its original location on Sheikh Zayed Road near the World Trade Center, this one is located in the tourist-heavy, pedestrianised shopping area The Beach but retains many of the hallmarks that has earned Akin its loyal following.
For starters, the venue is hard to find. Seemingly based on a ‘if you know, you know’ principle, the four-chair barbers is not signposted and tucked away within the entranceway of The Warehouse Gym. Inside the clean, precise aesthetics of Akin gives the impression of walking into an interactive art project.
Designed by boutique architect firm, Anarchitect, the high-quality materials used in the space give it a rather delicious up-market, hipster feel with exposed concrete walls, black paneling and a wooded ‘frame’ structure allowing the space a personality of its own. The unclutteredness of its shelves and working surfaces combined with the use of classic barbershop hexagonal tiling makes it feel clinical, but in a good way.
According to its tagline, Akin offers haircuts, beard tune-ups and straight razor shaves, but it is the addition of a curated concept store and lattes and cold drip brews thanks to its working relationship with the caffeine kings Common Grounds next door that elevates it to the more luxury-end of the barbershop shop experience.
The cuts don’t come cheap (AED175 for a haircut), nor do they come quick (approx. 45-mins), but it is not a place that looks to attract the masses. Since it originally launched in 2015, it has grown through predominately word-of-mouth attracting a mix of stylish, upwardly-mobile men who know the impact of a good fade, and those who want to hideaway in a calming bolt hole where they can slow down and get lost for a bit. Both types of customer, and the Akin experience as a whole, are in search of the same thing that most people tend to overlook – cool.
Akin At The Beach, The Warehouse Gym JBR, Dubai. Tel: +971 52 3647092
Unison Barber
There are two things that I expect my barber to have: a beard, and an opinion. Let me explain. As a hirsute man, I am naturally inclined to trust a barber who has impressive facial hair. At the very least it shows that he understands first-hand the needs and issues faced with growing and maintaining it, and therefore he can relate. The second point, and perhaps more important, is for them to be someone who will openly discuss with you what you can do —and be confident enough to advise you on ways to improve your look.
I’m not saying you have to engage in hour-long conversations about Game of Thrones conspiracy theories, but an open and respectful dialogue with the man holding a blade to your throat is never a bad thing. Imad is the man with the blade in-hand this month, as he patiently sculpts out an impressive fade, telling me to leave the top long, “trust me,” he says. He is one of the barbers at the recentlyopened Unison Barber in Dubai’s Palm Strip Mall. And, yes, he has a beard. A good one, too.
“Owning a barber shop was never part of my plan when I moved to Dubai,” says Unison Barber founder Zach Kendall. “I just constantly struggled to get a consistent haircut and memorable experience, it was either one or the other. That brought me to the question, what would I do different if I was to own a barber shop?” The answer was to open Unison.
While the boom of trendy men’s barbershops is well documented in Esquire , Unison feels like it offers something new. With its edgy, distressed concrete interiors juxtaposed against a trio of clean wood shelves, mix-matched pot plants and white bathroom tiles, it feels very urban-cool. Its roster of barbers don’t wear braces or have mandatory sleeve tats.
There is no pretension of offering the ‘authentic’ kind of treatment you’d receive in another country, the focus seems to be very much on the barber, his tools and the treatment. As a long-time Dubaidweller, there is also something nostalgic about visiting Palm Strip Mall. Once the luxury heart of the swanky-end of Jumeriah, the opening of mega malls and Meraas properties led it to somewhat lose its shine, but not its charm. “The mall has a certain charm and resonance that I hadn’t found anywhere else in Dubai,” say Kendall. “It instantly felt and still feels like a hidden gem.”
Although, what Kendall might not be aware of is that in terms of ‘hidden gems’ he may have just created one himself.
Unison Barber, Palm Strip Mall, Beach Road, Dubai. Tel: +971 055 640 1211
Dunhill – The Dubai Mall
When it comes to grooming, we’re very much of the opinion that simplicity is always best. For example, when asked, “how would you like your hair cut” the general response is: “short”. “Would you like an espresso? How about some polite conversation, sir?” The answer to both is a simple sideways shake of the head. We’re not here to have fun. We’re here to manage the results of what is a biological necessity; humans are hairy, hair grows quickly (and looks untidy if not cared for), hence it must be lopped off.
And as with all monotonous chores we must now contend with (taking out the trash, washing the dishes, arguing with Lorraine from the accounts department) to call myself an adult, they work best when they are over quickly.
However, this point of view is very much at odds with the folks at Dunhill’s Dubai barbershop (which is secreted away inside the Dunhill boutique in Dubai Mall). They believe that grooming should be an experience; hot towels, moisturizing face creams and all the rest.
It’s a bit weird walking into a posh boutique to have your hair cut. You’re at your most shaggy and unkempt before you visit a barber, which makes walking past the polished clothes and manikins of the recently renovated boutique a bit of an experience itself.
Nonetheless, the boutique staff are pretty good at spotting those who have walked through the doors looking to purchase expensive clothing versus the dishevelled-haired masses. As such, barbershop visitors are quickly whisked away to the centre of the store and into one of two rooms.
Inside, you’ll find all the modern barbershop staples: a big old-school leather chair, a collection of bottles and creams, as well as that weird blue goo that sits next to the mirror in every barbershop in the world (do they know what it is? Does anyone?)
Skipping over the bit where the barber asks how you how you want the mop on the top of your head cut (this is typical of any barbershop visit, you know how conversations work) the cutting of the hair begins. And while I am no expert in the hairy arts, I can say one thing for certain; there was an awful lot of concentration involved.
The barber looked like he was planning the moon landings (as opposed to just studying the back of my furry head) and once his calculations were made, he was off. But not in the typical ‘get the clippers out and start buzzing’ fashion. He took his time.
He primped and preened my noggin’ for a good forty-five minutes – not a single follicle escaped his considered gaze – before turning his attention to my beard. Two hot towels, a cream, a cut-throat razor, and another cream later and what stared back at me from the mirror was barely recognizable. And not in a bad way.
The barbershop inside the Dunhill boutique represents an evolution over most men’s typical haircut. It’s not quick and it’s not cheap, but it is very good. It’s a proper experience and one that even I – with my proclivity to getting shorn and shaven as quickly as possible – enjoyed.
For me, getting a haircut has always been a necessary evil. This place takes that evil, wraps it up in a soft warm towel then gives it an unexpected head massage (followed by a spritz of Dunhill fragrance).
Dunhill Barber, Fashion Avenue, The Dubai Mall. Tel: +971 04 434 0403
The Art of Shaving
The posh barber trend shows no signs of abating. We recently walked through our old neighbourhood and saw that the local shawarma shop had been turned into a temple of the hirsute man. The barbers wore suspenders, trendy beards and quiffs, and it was packed with punters looking for a brand new look.
But the king of trendy barbers has to be The Art of Shaving. This New York export specializes in hair and beard care, and since opening its first store in Manhattan in 1996, has gone on to produce a huge range of shaving products (with a little help from its partner company, Gillette).
The brand’s Dubai Mall store follows the same stylings as its previous barbershops. Think wood floors, wall-to-ceiling products on display, suspender-wearing barbers, and, of course, the cutting room – complete with a proper barber chair.
What makes this store interesting – or a total nightmare for those with agoraphobia – is that the barber room features two walls made of glass. That means those walking by the store can easily glance in and see whatever state your haircut is in at the time. It also affords the general mall-goer a glorious view of the crotch while your hair is being washed (although fortunately, the glass is partly-frosted – much to the chagrin of the crotch-watching shopper, we’re sure).
The Art of Shaving prides itself on its signature shave, which is named rather presumptuously: The Perfect Shave. It’s a four-step process that ranges from preparing your face with oils, lathering up, the shaving bit, and finally a quick moisturize.
That last step is done differently here than you might expect. Instead of them slapping on some moisturizer, they pop two cucumbers over your eyes and paint it on. Then they leave you alone with your thoughts for five minutes, while your skin laps up the moisture. It sounds a bit much, but we rather enjoyed it. Having a bit of time to yourself is never a bad thing, and the cucumbers on your eyes stop you being able to see shoppers ambling by gawping at your bright, whitely-moisturized face.
The posh barbershop isn’t going anywhere soon. So if you’re in the market for some primping and preening at the hands of a mustachioed-suspender wearing master barber – along with all the pomposity that goes along with that – then you may as well go to the best one around.
The Art of Shaving, First Floor, The Dubai Mall, Tel: +971 4 396 2383