For 180 years, Penfolds has been pushing boundaries in the world of viticulture, achieving greatness by venturing beyond accepted norms in pursuit of excellence. To mark the brand’s 180th anniversary, we’re looking closer to home at the innovators succeeding in pushing the boundaries in the Dubai hospitality scene.
Exploring the world for new flavours and inspirations is a passion shared by chef Paul Gajewski and sommelier Samuel Lacroix. In their successful careers so far, both men have sought out new culinary ideas in a number of international locations to further their knowledge and enhance their craft.
Born in Poland and raised in multi-cultural Melbourne, Gajewski tested himself in elite European kitchens run by icons of the culinary world. He’s now putting that experience to good use at The Guild in Dubai, founded by the influential Tom Arnell.
Hailing from Montreal, Lacroix is a two-time winner of Gault & Millau’s Sommelier of the Year award in 2023 and 2024. Having worked at Amazonico in DIFC, he is now Wine Director at the prestigious Burj Al Arab hotel in Dubai. Paul and Samuel spoke to Esquire Middle East about what drives them to produce excellence every day.
Paul Gajewski
How do you think your upbringing in Melbourne influenced your outlook on food?
PG: Very much indeed. Melbourne is a melting pot of cultures and all those international flavours create a unique and special food scene with fast moving trends and a huge range of diverse ingredients that enable authentic cooking.
What are your memories of working at Vue de Monde in Melbourne early in your career?
Can you recall the first time you met Tom Arnell?
PG: Tom and I first met when he was in the pastry section and I was in the fish section at Vue de Monde. I can’t recall the conversation exactly, but it would have been something along the lines of, “Mate, how ya going?” To which my reply was, “In the weeds! Great to meet you!’’. There wasn’t much time for conversation, it was all work until we finally left the restaurant around 1.30am and went to the local pub, The Irish Times.
What did you learn from working in Europe with great chefs such as Joel Robuchon, Guy Savoy and René Redzepi?
PG: Joel Robuchon set the most incredible brand identity, consistency and how a restaurant concept could be replicated around the world. Guy Savoy was the main reason I wanted to work in Paris. He led a restaurant to decades of three-star Michelin success and still maintained the true essence of French cookery. I grew up learning French cooking fundamentals and I really wanted to learn them from such a chef.
Then, René Redzepi and Noma are what truly changed my life and career. The day I started at Noma was the first time it was named the number one restaurant in the world. From the moment I entered the kitchen, there was something almost romantic about what was happening. The aura of the restaurant was unlike anything I’d ever encountered, it felt like a bubble, a place truly on its own level. To be on the pass plating with arguably the best chef of our time saying to me, “That’s beautiful, chef’’ is something I will never forget.
Were you intimidated walking into the kitchens of these renowned restaurants?
PG: I understood that these experiences were going to not only teach me, but also set me up for future success, and I was so eager to show what I could do. I went with focus and determination to impress in any way I could. I knew if I could prove my capabilities and be acknowledged for my skills, it would give me the confidence to enter any kitchen in the future. I was prepared to work harder and be better than anyone else in the kitchen.
Did joining Tippling Club in Singapore feel like another big step up for you?
PG: Moving countries and into a bigger role was always my goal and my hunger for knowledge, growth and career progression was all I focused on. Singapore was in a huge growth stage and I wanted to offer the greatest and most sought-after food concepts from around the world.
How exciting is it to work in Dubai where the restaurant scene is so competitive?
PG: The exponential growth and ambition in Dubai to exceed expectations is quite formidable and it’s extremely exciting be a part of that. Competition is always great as it motivates the market to excel and push the boundaries. The more market growth we have, the greater the expectations and results.
Penfolds encourages us to ‘Venture Beyond’. Can you explain ways in which you go the extra mile in your work?
PG: Each day I set out to drive positive results for myself, the business, my team and – most importantly – the guest. In my opinion, showcasing our beautiful restaurant and its talented team is the key to great hospitality. Every day I try to bring my genuine heartfelt approach to work and express the joy I feel at doing my vocation.
What is it that impresses you about Penfolds, and is there a wine in the portfolio that particularly resonates with you?
PG: For me, the most impressive aspect of Penfolds is the consistency. Since 1844 Penfolds has demonstrated its ability to produce exceptional wine year after year while never compromising the integrity or quality of the vintages. Penfolds has been able to adjust as the market needs and still maintain its prestigious name.
The standout wine for me in the Penfolds portfolio is the 1986 Grange. Having been lucky enough to taste this spectacular wine many years ago, it has really stayed with me. I felt it had a rich and extravagant palate with complex dark chocolate, dark berry, herb fruit notes and a long finish. I believe this is really a true representation of what the Grange is all about.
Samuel Lacroix
You started your career in restaurants in Montreal in 1999. What was it about that environment that drew you in?
SL: Put very simply, I just always loved food and cooking. As I began to work with different chefs and different cuisines, I found that my passion kept growing.
Tell us about your training at École Hôtelière de Laval in Montreal. How exciting was it to be surrounded by wine and people who loved wine?
SL: At that stage, I was already working in one of the best restaurants in Montreal and had realised that wine was something I wanted to focus on. It was great to have this amazing programme available with help from the government. Learning about wine there was very exciting indeed and I think it motivated me to push myself hard and finish best in class.
Did you find the training difficult, or was it a feeling of pleasure at learning about something you loved?
SL: When you are passionate about something it doesn’t feel difficult at all. I’m not saying it was easy, but I felt that I could never have enough of the training – I loved to learn.
Why did you make the move to Dubai in 2017?
SL: I knew that Dubai had an emerging wine culture that needed guys like me. I loved travelling and living overseas, and Dubai seemed like a good place to go since I had never been to the Middle East. I knew the UAE was a very safe place to live which was hugely attractive to me.
You worked for some time in DIFC, which has so many wonderful restaurants. Can you describe the atmosphere of the dining scene in DIFC?
SL: DIFC is definitely a hot spot for vibrant restaurants in Dubai. I was really attracted by these big venues that were filled with lots of people, and the emphasis they placed on music, design and creating a high-energy ambiance.
Did you feel an increase in pressure when you became wine director at Burj al Arab?
SL: Yeah, for sure! It’s not everyday that you get to manage one of the biggest wine collections in the country within one of the most recognisable hotels on earth.
You’ve travelled around the world visiting vineyards. Putting aside the quality of the wine for a moment, which country or region is the most beautiful you’ve visited?
SL: It’s hard to pick a favourite, as I love to visit new places and explore new destinations. I just came back from the Alto Adige/Südtirol region in northern Italy and I must admit that the mountains hold a special place in my heart.
Penfolds encourages us to ‘Venture Beyond’. Can you explain ways in which you go the extra mile in your work?
SL: I have to say that going beyond expectations is one of our main goals at work. We strive in providing our guests with the best of everything and during my career I’ve learned that it’s all in the details.
What is it that impresses you about Penfolds, and is there a wine in the portfolio that particularly resonates with you?
SL: I think Penfolds is the ultimate icon of Australian wine with its history and fame. Grange is of course the flagship wine but, for me, St Henri is the purest expression of the fruit quality of this amazing terroir.