In a city of fine dining, few names evoke as much excitement as Rüya. Crowned the best by Esquire in 2018, it successfully held our attention until its regrettable closure in 2020.
But after a two-year hiatus, Rüya is back, this time at St. Regis the Palm. With its return, the question hangs heavy: can this reinvented Rüya meet the high bar set by its past self?
Getting to Rüya, now comfortably housed at St. Regis the Palm, is refreshingly uncomplicated. An exclusive lift transports you to the restaurant’s locale, overlooking an infinity pool. Come cooler months, the pool-side terrace offers a nice retreat from the busy city. And with the St. Regis making a play to become a real foodie destination, Rüya could be a significant player in that journey.
The reincarnated Rüya maintains much of the visual appeal of its previous life. It’s an Instagram-worthy meld of Anatolian influences, with patterns, colors, and textures that are as camera ready as many of its dishes. There’s a diverse crowd here; from well-dressed patrons sipping cocktails at the bar to couples sharing plates of food. It makes for a vibrant and enjoyable mix.
During the day, sunlight streams in through floor-to-ceiling windows, and at night, the ambiance transitions to something more dark and mysterious. There’s a pulse to the place that never feels overbearing.
However, the inclusion of an electric violinist — a maddening choice for food-focused visitors — is a tad irksome, especially for those who come more for the food than the fanfare.
Turkish flavors dominate the menu, with aubergines and walnuts making repeat appearances. The lamb, charred to perfection, lies on a bed of — you guessed it — aubergine. However, the legendary cheese pide of yesteryears feels somewhat lacklustre this time around, and some dishes – like the tartare – just don’t have the same culinary pizazz.
That said, the mushroom barley risotto was delicious; a vegetarian dish elevated to a level traditionally dominated by its meaty counterpart.
Rüya, in its new incarnation, proves a solid addition to St. Regis’s culinary lineup. Its interiors are stunning, the dishes largely commendable, and barring the soundtrack of an electric violinist, it’s a place that will easily become a regular haunt for many. But it’s not quite the shining star it once was.
Nevertheless, its dedication to showcasing the best of Turkish cuisine remains unrivaled. The sequel might not eclipse the original, but it sure puts up a good fight.