With 21 restaurants around the world — and counting — a trophy cabinet full of awards and a series of bestselling cookery books to his name, Chef Masaharu Morimoto is an icon of the culinary world. Known to many as the “Iron Chef”, due to his starring roles on both the Japanese and American versions of the hit television show, the 68-year-old remains relentless in his pursuit of culinary excellence.
At Morimoto Doha – the first of his restaurants to open in the Middle East – the Chef continues to create a bridge between culinary traditions at the Mondrian Doha. It is a signature style that has seen him receive numerous accolades for his cuisine and aesthetic, including several appearances on San Pellegrino’s Top 100 Restaurants in the World list, a James Beard Foundation Award, and a coveted Michelin star.
Growing up, he tells Esquire, his parents were not wealthy and, perhaps unusually for a chef that has become synonymous with Japanese cuisine, cooking wasn’t a staple feature of family life. Occasionally, however, the family would dine out and it’s these memories that marked his first introduction into the world of food. “We would walk to a sushi restaurant,” he says. “My mother would pour saké for my father. There was always this exciting atmosphere inside and, most importantly, the food was good.”
Sushi wasn’t his only love. “I had two major dreams when I was little,” he reveals. “One was to become a chef and the other was to play baseball.” Whilst he had the makings of a professional athlete, a shoulder injury prevented him from taking his sports’ career further and, fortunately for his foodie fans around the world, he began studying sushi in his hometown of Hiroshima.
“After graduating from high-school, I started working in a sushi restaurant. I used to live above the restaurant, it was all very intense. From early morning until late at night, it was work, work, work.” It’s a professional ethic that continues to this day. “I have teams around the world — chefs, operation managers, accountants — and they send reports every night but if something happens and they need me for whatever reason, I will travel to be there. My body is getting old but the mind is ok,” he says laughing. “I am very fortunate to have a great team around me that feels like family.”
From Japan, Morimoto relocated to America where he has continued to garner critical and popular acclaim for his seamless integration of Western and Japanese ingredients and his own signature style. His plates, alive with exquisite technique and perfectly balanced flavours encompass everything from Wagyu Beef Carpaccio to Salmon tacos; Oyster and Uni Foie gras; Miso Black Cod; Seafood Toban Yaki featuring lobster, tiger prawn, mussels, clams sea scallop, and a spicy red miso lobster broth; to moreish Oh-Toro, Hamachi, and unagi; and a revelatory Lobster Sushi Rice Risotto with parmesan foam.
Unafraid to veer from the culinary purist’s path, does he see himself as a rule-breaker? “Yes,” he says. As part of a special omakase menu curated for Doha’s hosting of Formula One, he created a melon dish using “fatty fish instead of the usual meat” and incorporated local Qatari ingredients. “I always think about how I can make something different. If I can twist it up, then why not? I don’t like saying no, and I find that creativity can be inspired by forging something new.”
At Morimoto, the experience of dining is as much a part of the joy as the inventive cuisine. Adorned with artworks by Japanese painter, Hiroshi Senju, giant rose-gold studded columns, mirrored doors, a 16-seat sushi bar and an open kitchen, the design and atmosphere of Morimoto Doha are key. “I respect the locals, the culture, history, and palette. I like to tailor to that. Every single restaurant that I do, I think about how I can make the customer happy through atmosphere, interior design, service, and music.”
The customer journey, he believes, begins with happy staff. “If my employees are not happy, then how can my customers be? You have to love, respect and honour the place you work in, so that when a customer comes in they can feel it.” With such a hectic work and travel schedule, when he finally gets to relax at home, what does he cook? “My wife cooks at home!” he tells Esquire, laughing. “It’s like being a professional comedian. You are always appearing on screen being funny, but when you get home you don’t watch TV and you barely crack a joke. I’m lucky that my wife is a very good cook.”