I settle into my chair at a circular table with four strangers. We’re all tired – glancing at phones, avoiding being the first to engage in small talk. Then the first dish hits the table, a generous helping of pan con tomate. As we crunch into the bread, tomato, olive oil, garlic and salt the conversation starts to flow.
We are all here to experience the latest global outpost of Chef José Andrés’ restaurant empire, more specifically tapas favourite Jaleo at Atlantis The Royal. Jaleo has been introducing the Spanish way of life to North Americans since it first opened its doors in Washington DC in 1993. Its day two of the Atlantis The Royal opening weekend and things have been extravagant and overwhelming. We’re part of the lucky few who get to have a moment of quiet. It’s a matter of cosmic luck that we are able to do it at the celebrated restaurant outside of normal business hours.
Designed through the creative lens of José Andrés and his team – who are very present and clearly valued during our lunch – Jaleo aims to bring to life the spirit and flavors of Spain by showcasing the rich regional diversity of Spanish cuisine. Celebrating the traditional as well as the cutting-edge, Jaleo conjures up a taste of Spain in a festive and casual setting. The seating is comfortable and cozy, and the fire coming from the paella cooking pit makes proceedings feel primordial. The words comfortable and welcoming come up a lot in the restaurants own literature, but also in reviews. And sitting here, I can see why. Even though Jaleo ranks consistently as a top dining destination, it doesn’t feel intimidating in the slightest.
The Dubai location is the first outside the United States. During our extended lunch, Andrés introduces us to his brother, a long-time Dubai resident. He will be the ears and eyes of the operation. Andrés himself is never in one place for too long. When he leaves Dubai he will head to Beirut, where in the aftermath of the devastating August 4th 2020 explosion he helped feed thousands of people. His life seems evenly split between opening industry-leading restaurants and World Central Kitchen, the non-profit he founded in 2010 to provide meals in the wake of disasters. After Beirut he will head to Ukraine.
We are initially scheduled to have a quick meet and greet with Andrés —but he stays for 90 minutes. He serves us his food. He talks us through everything. We share drinks and stories. It is like catching up with an old friend. It takes effort to remember that the person across the table from you drinking gregariously from a porrón has been named amongst the most influential people in the world by Time Magazine. Twice. The James Beard Foundation named him Outstanding Chef and Humanitarian of Year. He is a TV personality – the pinned post on his Instagram features Andrés introducing Drew Barrymore to Spanish pastry Xuixo to much delight. Andrés’ restaurant group includes 31 restaurants, from food trucks to his multi-location vegetable-focused fast casual, Beefsteak, and world-class tasting menus like minibar. Andrés is the only chef globally that has both a two-star Michelin restaurant and four Bib Gourmands. But sitting here, he’s not Chef Andrés. He’s José. He’s a larger than life character and it feels like we’ve all been friends forever – even if only for 90 minutes.