Nobu needs no introduction. The name is synonymous with cutting-edge Japanese style fused with South American influences, including now-legendary (and much imitated) classics such as Black Cod seared and served with sweet miso sauce. 14 years after Nobu arrived in Dubai, setting up shop in The Avenues at Atlantis The Palm, it has moved into a new space at The Royal Bridge Suite on the 22nd floor.
Next door at the much-hyped new Atlantis The Resort, the first ever Nobu by the Beach has also opened its doors – promising to be a magnet for food-obsessed sunseekers. Esquire Middle East met up with Chef Matsuhisa on the day of the big opening.
Nobu Matsuhisa sits down with Esquire Middle East at Atlantis Dubai
You essentially created a new type of cuisine. Is there something you’re particularly proud of in the legacy you’ve built or something you regret?
Well, you know, cooking is my whole life. I cook. I serve. I see a customer smiling! I don’t think about the future. It’s always in the moment that I like to try my best.
But how do you build an empire like yours when you’re thinking in the moment?
I never think about the future. I just try my best. Even if I’m moving one millimeter forward, I’m very happy. I don’t want to skip ahead 10 steps in a day. Step by step. My experience started in 1987 with my first restaurant in Beverly Hills. I’m still here because maybe I’m a lucky person. I have had great partnerships. Good teams, good customers. Good investors too! I cannot complain about my life so far. That’s why I like to try my best.
You’ve traveled a lot across your career, from Japan to Peru to Alaska to London to Dubai, I wonder if there’s something you find everyone has in common in all these places.
With food, we look for simplicity. You know, my mother and my grandmother, every meal as a kid I knew it was always cooked with heart. So that’s what I’ve learned. That’s the most important thing in how to cook. Good product, simple, clean and with heart.
Your friendship with Robert De Niro and what it led to is now legendary. I wonder, what would you be doing if you hadn’t had that partnership?
Before Bob, I was afraid of partnerships, because partners are always a problem. So the first time Bob asked to open a restaurant together was in 1988 or 89. He invited me to New York. I went there. I spent three or four days with him. By the end I said thank you but no – I decided it was too early. I was just worried about partnerships. He didn’t say too much, just ‘ok I understand’. Four years later he asked me to come to New York again. I was surprised. He had been observing me for years, following my career. That made me decide I can trust him. It’s not about being famous or a big name. We’re good friends and good partners.
As Nobu grows around the world and now there’s even a beach club here in Dubai, how do you keep that heart and soul of the original idea?
It is my job! I like to build good teams. A lot of the people with me were kids when they started. They might still be kids! But they know our philosophy. We started like a mom and pop restaurant. Now it’s a big operation. But the base is always working heart to heart. My job is to watch over my kids and educate them. Even if they’re against me sometimes! (laughs)
What does the perfect meal look like to you?
Natural flavour. Simple. Not too much food. I only want an 80% full stomach. I don’t like business dinners with strangers. I like to stay with my team, my family. I’m comfortable with them. Many people invite me to their house for dinner but I never go. Besides in interviews, I don’t like to talk too much.
That’s a good place to stop this then… but last question, do you still get excited when you’re launching a new place?
I’m always proud and honoured. I like to watch my team at work. And now I want to educate the next generation of chefs.
Find more about Nobu at Atlantis here.