Grape stomping is unusually relaxing. Okay, it’s a bit squishy, and weird, and much harder to keep your balance than you might expect, but on the whole a calming way to spend some time. Were I here alone, at the Grupo Estevez vineyards of the Macharnudo Alto in Jerez, the reality is that I would have considered sitting down in the thing, as if at some edgy wellness retreat. That’s presumably frowned upon by the winemaking community. Maybe they should put up a sign.
There’s something rather wonderful about coming to a place such as Jerez de la Frontera — to give it its full name. Tucked away in southeastern Spain, the largest city in the province of Cadiz has a gentle buzz. The people here are proud of where they live and of what they do amongst the patchwork Mudéjar and Baroque architecture. Flamenco originated here, Lola Flores — one of the most famous flamenco dancers and Spanish actresses of all-time — was born here.
But sherry is what has allowed Jerez to build and flourish since the 19th century. Along with Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and El Puerto de Santa María it is part of what’s known as The Sherry Triangle (those who enter often report the subsequent disappearance of days), and it’s main export is the reason that we’re here. Well, the effect of it at least, on the distinct flavour of The Macallan Double Cask Collection.
While the sloping vineyards and chalky, limestone soil of Jerez are just the beginning for The Macallan Double Cask Collection, their impact is longlasting. In fact the American and European oak sherry casks built and seasoned here make up to 80 percent of the flavour and 100 percent of the colour. It’s an arduous journey to fruition — 12, 15, 18 and 30 years, to be exact — but a sensorial experience without compromise.
Until relatively recently (around the 1970s), sherry would have been sold in bulk, exported in casks and then bottled at destination. Shipping the empty casks back to Spain didn’t really make much sense, so they would be sold on to whisky distilleries. Hence the sherry oak cask smoky sweetness of your favourite tipple. After Spanish law dictated that all wines had to be bottled prior to leaving the country that all changed, leaving the whisky industry to find a work around. It’s fair to say that The Macallan had long-since mastered this art (since 1824, to be exact).
So, The Double Cask collection comes by way of American oak from the forests of Kentucky, Ohio and Missouri combined with European oak from the hilly northern regions of Spain, infusing notes of citrus, vanilla, and sweet dried fruit, spices and orange. It’s a highly complex business, here’s how it’s done:
Once harvested, the trees left to air dry in location for one year. After that they’re quarter cut into staves and transported to Jerez where they’re left to dry for another year, taking in the moisture of a new climate. Next, they’ll be shaped by master coopers to become casks for The Macallan and toasted over small fires to offer new characteristics thanks to a caramelisation of the wood.
Once the casks are approved by The Macallan’s Master of Wood, they head to the sherry bodegas to be filled and left to rest for 12-18 months. After that it’s over to The Macallan Estate in Speyside, Scotland to be filled with what’s known as a ‘new make’ and placed under the watchful eye of the Whisky Mastery team. It’s their job to find the best balance of spirit from both American and European oak sherry seasoned casks needed to create The Macallan Double Cask.
Of course these are simply the highlights. Describing mastery (in around 500 words) is no easy feat, it turns out. In Jerez, such skill has come by way of around 300 years of honest toil. But that hard graft has led to greatness. And when it comes to The Macallan Double Cask, you’ll find that’s a greatness appreciated in Spain, Speyside and everywhere in between.