Faia Younan strolls through the al-Buzuriyah Souq in the ancient city of Damascus. The heady mix of spices and Arabic medicines fill the air as she winds around the narrow alleyways and bustling shops heading towards Khan As’ad Pasha—a UNESCO-listed landmark—the largest caravanserai in the Old City.
Once she arrives within the courtyard of the Khan she takes a quiet moment to take it in. The water trickling from the Damascene fountain; the stone benches; the Corinthian and Tuscan pillars, all make up a masterpiece of symmetry in mazy arches and mesmerising domes. “For me, walking to Khan As’ad Pasha through the old souk is a magical journey,”
Younan says, “you can almost feel the presence of each of the different civilisations that have lived and passed through this city.” Although she is saying this out loud, in a way, she
is also saying it to herself—to remind herself.
It is clear that for the popular Syrian singer—who made her acting debut in the recent Ramadan show Taj—that the sense of historical weight makes up an important part of her cultural identity. “Our music, art, traditions, languages, food, fashion, our diversity—everything and anything has been filtered through the years and survived generation after generation. They tell both the told and untold stories of who we are as Syrians today,” she says.
Faia Younan is here to shoot exclusively for Esquire Middle East. The location specifically chosen to represent the heart of the ancient Silk Road, where Damascus played a pivotal economic and commercial stop for global trade. As the photographer snaps away, she stands there, the centre of attention with a stunning, delicate black cape across her shoulders, adorned with intricate Arabic calligraphy designed by Syrian-Palestinian designer Leen Abdul Rahim. The letters weaved into the garment are from a poem by Palestinian writer Mahmoud Darwish, which reads: ‘For on this land there is what makes life worth living’—for Younan it is a reminder of “who I am, and that I belong to this accumulation of hundreds of years of beauty in all forms of culture.”
From the stunning Ottoman caravanserai to the fields of Syrian nature with pure-bred Arabian horses, the photoshoot with Faia Younan showcases unique looks from two prominent Syrian fashion designers, displaying the best of what Syria has to offer creatively, and as the country goes through a gradual fashion revival, history and heritage are increasingly playing a more comprehensive role in the themes behind creative talents.
Wearing pieces by Leen Abdul Rahim and Joana Hakki filled with rich craftsmanship Younan glows. Taking pride in promoting emerging and established Syrian talent alike, as the country witnesses a fashion renaissance with young, eager designers exhibiting audacious themes from Syrian culture and history to put Syria back onto the fashion map. “I feel genuinely lucky to be wearing these pieces today,” Younan admits. “Craftsmanship is so rare these days where trends last a couple of weeks and fast fashion is everywhere. I feel like designer pieces speak directly to your soul.”
Like Younan, the idea of identity plays a central role to the creative process of Leen Abdul Rahim. Her new collection is called ‘Arabian Message’ which he explains is her “message of love and peace from Arabs to the world” in the form of poetry and fabric.
Speaking to Esquire Middle East, the designer explains how she wants the collection to represent more than just clothing. “For me [Arabian message] is a canvas that shows our values and legacy to the world.”
“Even as I explore future collections, this one will always hold a special place in my heart as the embodiment of my personal and cultural identity,” says Abdul Rahim. “It reminds me to stay connected to our roots while sharing the beauty of our traditions. I hope it helps challenge misconceptions and inspire others to embrace the diverse and artistic spirit of our community.”
For young Syrian designers like Abdul Rahim, talent like Faia Younan is the epitome of the potential this new generation has. “Faia Younan is an ‘Arabian message’ in a human form,” she says with a smile.
Joana Hakki, is a Syrian fashion designer making waves internationally, focusing on vintage Syrian handicrafts as themes for pieces and brocade garments which serve as a testament to Syrian textile finery. Hakki’s new Renaissance XXI collection re-imagines centuries-old Damascene motifs into bold pieces with a contemporary edge.
In a spectacular reversible red Kimino called ‘Flamboyance’, with a hundred percent handwoven Damask silk, feathers and bead details, she brings Syrian design artistry to another level. “We blend Syrian craftsmanship with modern luxury, through a fusion of traditional artistry and contemporary design,” Hakki explains. “Our pieces celebrate our heritage by employing centuries-old techniques vibrantly and playfully. While our designs lean towards maximalism, we embrace minimalism through versatility and quality, giving life to timeless statement pieces.”
‘Flamboyance’ dress from the Renaissance XXI collection, by
Joana Hakki
Echoing Abdul Rahim’s sentiment about Faia Younan, Hakki was also delighted to be able to dress Younan for the shoot. “Faia Younan embodies grace, passion and authenticity,” says Hakki. “She evokes emotion through her music, while channelling her roots with each note. This alignment resonates deeply with our brand’s values of storytelling and timeless beauty. It’s not just about creating beautiful pieces; it’s about maintaining legacies that have been passed on over generations.”
While we don’t want to show too much behind the production curtain, it is worth noting that shooting a production in Syria is no mean feat. Encouraged by the idea of an all-Syrian production—including the one-off items of clothing—Faia Younan took some time off from her increasingly booked schedule to fly to Damascus from Sweden, specifically for the shoot.
“Absolutely, the idea of shooting in the Khan and wearing pieces by Leen [Abdul Rahim] and Joana [Hakki] was a big reason I wanted to be part of this project,” says Younan. “They are two talented Syrian women highlighting our culture in such an elegant way, each one of them in her way. Also, my accessories are designed by two other wonderful Syrian designers, I’m wearing a cuff with the Damascene sword made by Hanan Mashaal, and earrings with the mother of pearl by Souha Dayeh.”
Faia Younan burst onto the Syrian music scene off the back of her YouTube video, ‘To Our Countries’. The song’s virality helped her find an audience a subsequently grow a successful music career after a crowdfunding campaign that allowed her to release her debut single “Ohebbou Yadayka” followed by two other singles. She released her debut album, A Sea Between Us in 2017, and two years later followed it up with her second album Tales of the Heart. Now an established act in both Syria and abroad, her successful music career has led to new aims and she recently showcased her acting skills in the lead role in the Ramadan show, Taj. Starring top-shelf actors Bassam Kousa and Taim Hasan, the Samer Barkawi directed film depicts Damascus under the French mandate era.
“It was hard,” says Younan, “but I love challenges! Easy is boring.” Younan was cast in the role of Nouran, a strong Syrian woman living in Damascus between 1936 and 1946.
“She breaks the stereotype of what many people think Syrian women used to be like back in this period of history,” she says. “I felt so blessed to play the role. I grew so much during the experience.”
When discussing sharing the screen with Bassam Kousa and Taim Hasan, Younan smiles wryly. “Working with them was such a rich and crazy experience. I grew up watching them, feeling, crying, laughing with them in every character they played. It all felt like a dream. They are so great. Bassam Koussa is an icon for me. Taim Hasan is a genius! He is one of the greatest actors in the Arab world today, seeing his work ethic up close you really understand why.”
Tucked away in a residential enclave of al-Addawi in Damascus, lies the High Horse Equestrian Centre. This retreat is dedicated to the preservation of pure-breed Arabian horses, where Younan revels in the company of two all-white horses, Helwetna and Jad. Celebrated for their nobility and ancient lineage, Arabian horses are revered as one of the world’s most distinguished breeds.
Amer Alma who manages High Horse as a family venture, explains more. “The Arabian horse was originally cherished by the Bedouin people as special riding companions, their lineage goes back four to five thousand years. These horses were celebrated and admired.”
These steeds are part and parcel of Syrian history and heritage and require much preservation after the decade-long conflict which destroyed large parts of the country. Alma continues, “They [Arabian horses], are one of the oldest and most popular horse breeds in the world. We lost much of this special part of Syrian tradition and culture with horses due to the war, but now it’s on us to restore that to its former glory.”
Within the fields around High Horse, Syrian creative director Lama al-Hussainii surveys the surroundings while Younan is fitted with a white dress from Leen Abdul Rahim’s Arabian Message collection. The horses roam freely as the dress flows—a truly contemporary take on a Syrian craft is displayed. For Abdul Rahim, calligraphy is a central tool to convey Arabic history and heritage.
“Our language is unique, expressive, and inherently artistic,” she says. “Arabic calligraphy has developed into a lively and mesmerizing art form that merges the language with visual expression. Each script—whether Kufic, Naskh, Diwani, or Thuluth—carries distinct rhythms and aesthetics that showcase the rich diversity of the culture.”
That diversity and continuing growth in the expression of contemporary Syrian culture is fully showcased within the several days spent among Faia Younan and the crew. Whether it is the singer’s vocals, or the messages weaved into the fabrics of Syria’s new breed of designers, or even the cultural resonance that Damascus’ Old Town still has with its people, the deeper meaning is that Syria is reviving. Slowly but surely Syrian creatives are breaking borders and boundaries to make the country breathe again, under difficult circumstances to show what the creative landscape has to offer once more.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY Muhanad Sadek / CREATIVE DIRECTION BY Lama al-Hussaini