The true measure of a great wine lies not in the fleeting pleasures of a single evening, but in its ability to transcend time. Few names in the world of fine wine embody this more fully than Penfolds, the esteemed global wine producer whose restless curiosity and uncompromising standards have ensured its place among the most coveted labels in collectors’ cellars.
At the heart of that story is Grange, a wine born from one man’s vision on a serendipitous trip through Bordeaux in 1950. For Max Schubert, Penfolds’ pioneering winemaker, the idea of creating a red wine capable of living not just for years, but for decades, became an obsession. His first experimental vintage in 1951, though initially dismissed, would come to redefine the very notion of what Australian wine could achieve.
Penfolds’ journey since then has been one of custodianship. Every generation of winemakers has honoured tradition while pushing the boundaries of style and expression. At the core of this duality is the Penfolds “House Style”, a signature that unites regions and vintages into a language of richness, balance and longevity.
That longevity is more than just an aspiration. Every five years, Penfolds takes on an extraordinary project: The Rewards of Patience, a book that catalogues tasting notes for nearly every wine it has produced, compiled through rigorous tastings with leading critics and its own winemakers. This archive is a guide for collectors, offering expert views on which wines are still evolving, which are at their best now, and which may yet astonish in another decade or two. Its latest edition, due next year, carries special weight as it coincides with the 75th anniversary of Grange.
The story of Penfolds is not only told in print or bottle, but also through experiential encounters. On November 27, 2025, Dubai will host one such evening at Jara, The Lana — Dorchester Collection, where Chief Winemaker Peter Gago will lead an intimate dinner featuring some of Penfolds’ most revered back vintages.
Ahead of this landmark celebration, Esquire Middle East joined Peter in reflecting on Penfolds’ timeless legacy, the story of Grange’s evolution, and the memorable experience awaiting guests at an evening defined by heritage and exceptional wine.
Peter, who has guided Penfolds since 2002, combines precision with exuberance, his stewardship ensuring the continuity of Grange while encouraging bold new ventures such as the special releases and international collaborations. He’s also fresh off the success of being named the 2025 South Australian “Legend of the Vine” by Wine Communicators of Australia.
As Peter reflects on the legacy he now helms, it’s clear that Penfolds’ commitment to longevity runs far deeper than the wine itself. He speaks with pride about Rewards of Patience, now approaching its fortieth year and ninth edition. The tome is a monumental undertaking — the result of global tastings and assessments by some of the world’s most respected critics — created to help collectors understand when their bottles are at their peak maturity and when they still have “greater ageing potential.” It’s a reference work like no other, and one Peter says remains central to Penfolds’ philosophy of ensuring that wine lovers experience “the wonderful ageing journeys of their wines.”
That pursuit of patience is mirrored in Penfolds’ unique approach to wine care through its Recorking Clinics, a global service first launched almost thirty years ago, that Peter describes as “the ultimate in wine after-sales service.” He goes on to say, “From the outset, the thinking was simple: to stand behind our wines long after they’ve left the winery and to offer collectors a service that protects and preserves the integrity of cellared bottles.”
Winemakers personally inspect and refresh older bottles, recorking and certifying those that meet the standard. For collectors, it’s a reassurance of authenticity and preservation of value; for Peter , it’s a way of standing behind every bottle Penfolds have ever made. “It’s not just about putting new corks into old bottles,” he explains. “It’s about extending bottle life and maintaining integrity.” Few other wineries attempt such an undertaking, both because of its complexity and because few possess such a deep archive of mature wines that still circulate globally.
That same integrity extends to how Penfolds views its place among collectors. Peter acknowledges that wines like Grange, St Henri, and Bin 707 have long held a special allure, but insists that what sets them apart is not simply rarity or critical acclaim, though multiple perfect 100-point scores certainly help. It’s the way each vintage tells its own story within the framework of the Penfolds House Style — “a blend that has outlived fad and fashion,” he says, noting that no two Granges ever look quite the same, yet each remains unmistakably Penfolds.
Even after decades at the helm, Peter still speaks like a collector himself. Long before joining the winery, he was already queuing for Grange and Bin 389, and today his personal cellar includes those classics alongside newer favourites like Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz and the Superblend series. When friends ask for recommendations, he admits to being “even more careful” since it’s their money, but he stands by the same principle that has guided his career: to seek out vintages that will reward patience.
This philosophy resonates even in places far from Penfolds’ Barossa home. Peter’s visit to Dubai this year — his first to the region in over a decade — underscores how the Middle East is becoming an increasingly important market for fine wine. He’s quick to note that collectors here are as diverse as anywhere, united less by background than by curiosity. “Engagement with fine wine knows no borders,” he says, observing that while some collectors value provenance and tradition, others are drawn to innovation or the storytelling behind a label. For him, this evolving landscape only adds to the excitement: a reminder that fine wine, much like Penfolds itself, is as much about connection as it is about craftsmanship.
What makes Penfolds different is that it isn’t just about status or scarcity. It’s about history in a bottle, patience rewarded, and a connection to a winemaking tradition that has managed to stay both timeless and daring. There’s no wondering why people keep collecting. And why, 75 years on, Grange is still the bottle that sets hearts racing.
As Penfolds continues to strengthen its presence in the region, the winemaker will host an exclusive dinner at Jara by Martín Berasategui at The Lana, Dubai, on Thursday, 27 November. Guests will be served a five-course tasting menu curated by the Michelin-starred chef, paired with some of Penfolds most significant vintages, including Grange 1983 and 1991. Marking his first-ever wine dinner in Dubai, Penfolds Chief Winemaker, Peter Gago, will be in attendance to share expert insights into the featured wines, enriching the evening with his depth of knowledge and passion. Seats are limited and priced at AED 2,588 per person (tickets can be purchased here).