Panerai isn’t a watch brand that makes out-there design choices. So, how does the Florence-based brand get people to return to its most popular collection without resorting to novelty?
Well, at this year’s Watches and Wonders, the horology house has unveiled a line of Luminor Marina watches with new, equally enticing features.
To start, there’s a new calibre running the series. The P.980 is formed of a three-day power reserve automatic movement, has undergone six-position testing, includes a traversing balance bridge and a stop-second function and is visible through an open sapphire caseback. Thanks to the calibre’s sleeker proportions (12.5 lignes), the case’s thickness has been reduced by 12% and its weight reduced by 15%.
This collection also features, for the first time ever, a water resistance up to 50 BAR. Each watch undergoes rigorous testing at a pressure 25% greater than the guaranteed water resistance value, to ensure it meets Panerai’s stringent standards.
Within the collection, the Luminor Marina Titanio harks to the Maison’s roots via its army green colourway and military-precision materials. The 44mm case is made with Grade 5 titanium, making it as durable as steel but 44% lighter on the wrist. Panerai first used the material for its Millemetri prototype in the 1980s, but reintroduced it into production in 1998 for the Submersible collection. It was favoured for its resistance to corrosion, meaning it wouldn’t be damaged in Naval missions where an encounter with sea water is inevitable.
Nevertheless, Panerai offer a stainless-steel timepiece for those who are more likely to be at sea on a yacht than on a naval boat. Its pristine design is made for dressier occasions, while the low-carbon variant of its alloy further adds to its corrosion resistance. Complementing its light blue sun-brushed dial (another new colour for the brand) is a new V-shaped bracelet that tapers from the case to the buckle.
Another three models come with alligator straps, while two of them (PAM03312 and PAM03313) have dials in coordinating colours.
Sure, these timepieces don’t have any flashy add-ons to spark interest from brash watch wearers, but these changes are enough to catch your attention. Panerai fans will certainly agree.