There are few clothing brands so universally appreciated for their design, yet still accessible to the masses, as H&M. Not only has it managed to stay afloat since its inception, but it continues to stay relevant thanks to collaborations with some of the biggest designers, brands, and creative icons on the planet. Understandably, the hype for its latest release, the Rabanne X H&M collection, is not only a testament to the brand’s self awareness, but to its versatility and respect for the global fashion landscape.
Esquire Middle East sits down with Ann-Sofie Johansson, longtime Creative Advisor and Head of Design for Womenswear at H&M to talk about her own creative journey, H&M’s unwavering endurance, and the pros and cons of massive collaborations.
Esquire: What was your first “I made it” moment with this collection?
Ann-Sofie Johansson: Well, maybe the “I” in “I made it” isn’t quite the right reaction, as there were so many incredible people both at H&M and at Rabanne that made this collaboration happen, not just me! And actually, this collaboration came together over a period of about 18 months, so there were multiple exciting moments, rather than one big one. Certainly, one exciting step in the process was when we met with Julien Dossena and the Rabanne team for the second time in Paris, and he presented his overarching idea for the collection. He had such a clear vision from the beginning, built around this idea of a 1970s lifestyle, and he wanted to be generous with the Rabanne house icons, which was a really exciting prospect for us. Of course, when we got the first samples back, that was another exciting moment – especially the metallic mesh pieces, which we managed to make in a blend of recycled and conventional metal, after lots of trial and error, in collaboration with our supplier. And then when we launched the collection with a surprise party in Paris, and we saw people wearing the designs for the first time and received such a positive reaction, that was another milestone. So, there were lots of happy moments along the way. Now, I’m really looking forward to launching it in our stores and online and seeing how our customers wear it.
Esquire: What is the secret to H&M’s continued success with cross designer collaborations?
ASJ: Well, we’ve been doing designer collaborations at H&M since 2004, when we launched our first collaboration with the late Karl Lagerfeld. It was an instant success. It’s almost difficult to remember but back then, a collaboration was such a new concept – we were an early pioneer in that space. Since then, we have launched numerous collaborations and experimented every year with lots of different presentation formats, from live catwalk shows to music performances. We have a high ambition level for our collaborations and we want to “stop the world for a moment”. We’ve been able to refine a strategy over time that helps to achieve a huge level of buzz and excitement. The aim is always to give our customers something they can’t get anywhere else, at a quality level and price that is accessible to as many people as possible. Our customers really love these collaborations, which is why we keep doing them.
Esquire: The men’s collection feels like everything from 1970s Muscle Beach to the coat room at Studio 54. Talk me through the creative process and from where you drew your inspiration.
ASJ: We always try to give the designers we work with as much creative freedom as possible. In this case, Rabanne’s creative director Julien Dossena had a very clear vision for a 1970s pool party. He was inspired by Helmut Newton photographs of people drinking cocktails round the pool, some swimming, others in the corner playing card games. As I mentioned, he was very generous with the Rabanne house icons, which is something we were really happy about, as it feels really exciting to be able to offer our customers these pieces of fashion history. But Julien also wanted to offer some leisure pieces and elevated wardrobe classics that people could wear every day. I think that balance between the statement partywear and the everyday tailoring and athleisure is really important to Julien and it gives this collection a really well-rounded feel. In terms of the menswear, it’s the same balance between those statement items – the chainmail vest, the metallic suit – and the more laid-back track pants and tailoring. Hopefully there is something for everyone.
Esquire: As the Rabanne menswear and womenswear collection are both very vivacious, do you often approach menswear the same way? Or was this an unusually outlandishly cool collection contrary to what you normally do?
ASJ: have definitely noticed that the menswear customer has become more adventurous in the past few years, so broadly speaking we’ve been aiming to provide our menswear customers with more exuberant and flamboyant designs for a while. That said, we have lots of male customers who shop from the womenswear collections and vice versa, so we approach all our collections with an inclusive mindset. I would say that this Rabanne collection isn’t a departure but an extension of our creative philosophy and our desire to be as inclusive as possible.
Esquire: For men reading this, what are some staple pieces that will always tie an outfit together, and what are some specifics you personally love about the male wardrobe?
ASJ: I personally love the silver suit from the menswear collection – that’s something I’ll be wearing for many party seasons to come with a simple white T-shirt! In terms of staple pieces, there is a fantastic black wool pea coat that is a very classic piece people can wear for years to come, alongside the knitwear and the tailored wool trousers which are super versatile.
Esquire: With Paco Rabanne himself passing away earlier this year, how important was it to create a collection that honors his creative legacy?
ASJ: Julien has done a fantastic job since he began working at Rabanne 10 years ago of bringing new energy to an iconic Parisian fashion house. He’s managed to infuse the house’s most famous designs that people all over the world recognise, like the metallic chainmail dresses, with modernity and relevance. I think his respect for the archive and the work of the founder shine through in all of his work, including this collection.
Esquire: The women’s collection reminds me of a bullfighting matador meets Barbarella – can you talk me through some of the specific designs, and where you draw inspiration from?
ASJ: Again, this was part of Julien Dossena’s vision for the collection, and it struck that same balance of statement designs and house icons – metallic chainmail and shimmering paillette dresses and accessories – with the more everyday embellished tailoring and casual athleisure pieces. We wanted to observe best practice with this collection, aiming to work with more sustainable compositions as well as high-quality materials that provide durability. I think Julien would agree with me when I say that the pieces we are most proud of are the metallic chainmail pieces, made in the blend of recycled and conventional metal. The Rabanne team has been trying to make its signature chainmail in a more sustainable fabrication for years without compromising on the shine and durability, and after lots of collaboration with our supplier, we’ve finally achieved it. It’s a learning that both of us can take forward into the future.
Esquire: Being at the top of such an iconic brand, H&M is constantly doing collabs with other brands. Do you have a list of brands you want to work with, does it come naturally, or do they reach out to you?
ASJ: Yes, we have a dream list of brands and designers that we are always updating with people we’d love to work with in the future. I’m always asking the different teams for their opinions, as it’s really interesting to get different perspectives from different departments, age groups and backgrounds, and of course we do a lot of research and keep an eye on which brands are making a big impression in the fashion industry. The main purpose of our collaborations is to offer our customers something they can’t get anywhere else, at an affordable price point, made in a high-quality way – so that’s always front of mind, whenever we do a collaboration.
Discover more about the iconic Rabanne H&M collection here
