Rarely does a brand define an entire generation, nonetheless create an impact that travels overseas, resulting in the most famous people from the most famous cities in the world frothing at the thought of it. So, what brand are we talking about? First, let’s take a step into a time machine.
In the 1990s, as Britpop swaggered through the pubs of Camden and Trainspotting played in every flat with a VHS player, one brand emerged as a wardrobe essential for a new generation of British men: Topman. Not the Savile Row set, mind you—but the lads with floppy hair, thrashed Converse, and a penchant for The Libertines. Topman was the unofficial outfitter of the post-Cool Britannia male: stylish but not showy, trendy without trying too hard.
It was here, on the upper floor of every Topshop flagship, that young men learned how to dress themselves—sometimes questionably, always enthusiastically. Skinny jeans so tight they required negotiation, graphic tees loud enough to be heard all the way to Lindsay Lohan’s room at the Chateau Marmont, and tailored blazers worn with scuffed trainers. This was the Topman look: fast fashion with indie edge, a visual smorgasbord of pub culture and pop culture.
By the early 2000s, Topman was more than just a brand—it was a cultural barometer. When Pete Doherty wobbled out of a taxi in a trilby and cigarette-thin scarf, Topman had a version of it in-store by the end of the week. It was reactive, resourceful, and ruthlessly in tune with what men wanted to wear right now, a message that could be defined as: Be Here Now (hopefully you got that Oasis reference).
The stores, too, became part of the ritual. Walking into a Topman—especially the Oxford Circus flagship—felt like stepping into a nightclub that sold clothes. The music was loud, the mannequins overwhelmingly confident, and the clothes a dizzying blend of tribal prints, acid-wash denim, and military parkas. For an affordable price, you could walk out looking like you’d been styled by a 22-year-old magazine editor with an eye for East London nightlife: Mark Corrigan’s worst nightmare, or Luke Pritchard’s best friend, depending on how you look at it (presumably, you’ll go with the latter).
Fast forward to 2020’s lockdown, and the ability to peruse the aisles of in-store fashion brands vanished seemingly overnight. Arcadia Group, the retail monolith behind Topman, collapsed into administration…but fashion, much like mythology, loves a resurrection. And in 2021, Topman was reborn online—faster, meaner, and engineered for your feed in the palm of your hand.
“When I’m traveling all over the world, there’s nothing like Topman anywhere,” says current Topman designer Terrence Bell. “Women can go into any shop and get anything they want, but what about for the guys? Whatever it is you’re into, if you walk into a TopMan store, you’re going to find your personality hanging on one of the racks.”
From bomber jacket to white ribbed vest—“one of our best sellers, because of its simplicity and extreme comfortability,” adds Terrence—there is a thread of British DNA interwoven into every piece made, but that doesn’t mean they don’t gush over intercontinental inspiration.
“I research from all over the world. Japan. Korea. America. But one thing is that I’m always looking at chairs,” Terrence says. “Like, imagine if that chair was a sweatshirt? Imagine if you took that pattern from that 1960s chair and you put that in a knitwear piece. That’s going to look cool. So we’ll photograph that chair and then that becomes a knitted polo shirt.”
So, how does Terrence feel about this sudden resurrection of Topman hype?
“We haven’t gone anywhere! People say ‘no way, you’re coming back?’ Like, we never left, but nevertheless we’re thrilled about the enthusiasm.”
Still, despite the insurmountable hype and enthusiasm, Topman’s head of design, Steven Andrews, isn’t taking anything for granted.
“We hoped there would be a great response, but nothing is guaranteed. We’re not starting from scratch, but rather triggering a feeling of nostalgia. We really wanted to push the pop-ups, and we were really hoping it hadn’t been forgotten and hadn’t fallen off the radar, and we found that the emotional connection is still very much alive. I think we’ve got a real opportunity to offer amazing trends and good quality products without completely breaking the bank. The brand is so associated with a feeling and an attitude, a kind of personal identity rather than just a nice set of clothes.” True that.
And with Moses Rashid, founder of The Edit LDN, taking over as marketing director, one can only imagine what this streetwear guru has lined up for summer, now that he’s taken the reins.
“I can’t tell you everything…but just know it’s going to be big,” Rashid says.
Topman was not just about clothes, but rather an ID you draped over yourself like a Glastonbury wristband, letting the world know you were there. Cue the reverb guitars, floppy hair, white ribbed tanks, and a snarling attitude that’ll undoubtedly disappoint your grandma, but will make that one girl in the pub fall off the stool as you walk by. Are we stepping back in time, cannonballing into the future, or perhaps both? Well, in the words of LL Cool J, “Don’t call it a comeback.”