With sharp awareness of youth culture, a fresh design contingent is ripping up the rulebook in Saudi Arabia. More than simply ‘new gen’, these talents are mapping out a forward-thinking style future to explore
1. 1886
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2. IVRY
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3. Noble & Fresh
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4. Not Boring
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5. Rosa Canina
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6. SULÉ
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7. Torba Studio
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8.Unas Tokyo
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The Observer: The rise of Saudi streetwear
Streetwear talent and Saudi fashion might not be the most obvious bedfellows to some, but that’s is currently changing thanks to a new collective conceptualising style codes entirely of their own making. Rather than perceiving the gear shift and undeniably more casual vibe as counterintuitive, these designers are creating a new lane for the region to travel in. It’s an expansion, not a change of course entirely.
That said, defining a more relaxed style identity is certainly new terrain for a culture so proudly steeped in history. “Something that people don’t understand is the dynamism and energy of the country,” explains Burak Çakmak, CEO of the Ministry of Culture’s Fashion Commission. “And this is beyond fashion,” he continues. It reflects on fashion but people misperceive the knowledge that the majority of the country’s younger generation have about everything around the globe.” Çakmak details how a new guard is viewing the world with open minds, which mirrors their taste levels.
“It’s about who they follow and what they’re interested in. They have a very good idea of different cultures and subcultures, and a very good understanding of them.”
It is in this vein that multidisciplinary creative Yazeed Ahmad, co-founder of the label Unas Tokyo and award-winning filmmaker and photographer, takes inspiration. Ahmad points out that as a Saudi designer, a sense of heritage and tradition is not integral to creating fashion for now, but that doesn’t mean a compromise in identity. “I believe what impacts and inspires us today is as important as what did in the past. My inspiration comes out of the subcultures, the present, and the future.”
Yazeed Abahussein, the brains behind the five-year-old brand Not Boring, echoes this sentiment. His priority encompasses maintaining a sense.
of pride in where he comes from, “I felt the need as a young local designer to promote the idea of individuality and being different,” he states. “It’s the confidence to be your true self and not a copy of what everyone else thinks is cool and on-trend.” Abahussein’s form of personal expression bears sweatshirts, cotton shorts, T-shirts and baseball caps emblazoned with artfully worded slogans like ‘Not Under Control’ and ‘Addicted To Distractions’, and witty illustrations.
“Saudis are very aware of pop culture and the fashion industry in general,” muses Faisal Suleiman, founder and CEO of SULÉ, a business idea that came to fruition in 2015 when a durag and cap combination worn by a fellow concert-goer caught his attention—prototypes followed and have led to a SULÉ bandana tie-back cap being under consideration for U.S. and Saudi patents. Suleiman cites Ronnie Fieg and Francesco Ragazzi as inspirations, and elaborates on Saudi buying habits: “We love to purchase unique pieces and appreciate the art and creativity behind every item of clothing we own.”
With attitudes perpetually developing and such shared outlooks growing in number, it’s little surprise that the beginnings of a legitimate homegrown sneaker culture are forming across the country. Riyadh played host to Sneak.Me, a festival featuring live music, basketball demos, plus global and regional brands joining forces in panel talks and masterclasses in 2022, not to mention some Saudi gloss by way of a state-of-the-art museum showcasing highly sought-after rare limited editions. The concept landed a year after well-established Saudi designer Arwa Al Banawi collaborated with adidas Originals with a traditional Ghutra stitched across the heel for the first time, the style being reissued this season. Small but relevant steps towards a refreshed, contemporary direction for Saudi style—giant leaps incoming.
Photography by Vladimir Marti
Styling by Nour Bou Ezz
Model Ettore at Models Milano
Grooming by Catherine Newell for Verve Artists
Produced by Anna Castan
Words by Elle Timms