Whissle Hospitality must have shares in a truffle farm, because “the diamond of the kitchen” runs right through the menu of Okku – its contemporary Japanese restaurant – like a Japanese empress’s engagement ring.
You’ll first taste it on the Edemame Beans, perhaps while sitting at the bar enjoying a pre-dinner drink. It is worth hanging out with Souvik and Co. before, between and after courses, to be hypnotised by creative cocktail-making skills of the highest order as well as the mesmeric ‘jellyfish’ in the tank above the back-bar.
If fact, while you’re there toast your partner and celebrate your good taste in restaurants. You are going to enjoy Okku.
And not just for the food, which is special enough to cause ‘oohs and ahhs’ throughout the night, but also because of a well-executed catering operation that is attentive without being intrusive – at all times.
It is no coincidence that Okku has been named Team of the Year at the Caterer Middle East Awards for the past two years (2016 and 2017). It is a well-truffle-oiled machine.
Go wherever you like on this wide-ranging Oriental menu and prepare to be impressed by modern, novel and (occasionally) experimental dishes. Or let Okku take the wheel with a set-piece journey via its O-Style Tasting Menu for AED550. For those wanting to pair it with wine, be sure to budget another AED450 for sommelier recommendations. It’s hard to think of a better way of spending a thousand dirhams.
So let’s start with the small plates…
The HuShiHu (crispy duck) Salad somehow manages to be both sticky and fresh – you’ll immediately appreciate why “95 percent of customers order this”. But the Wasabi Tiger Shrimp is even better – perfectly striking a difficult balance with the mean, green paste.
More wonders follow, with the moreish Wagyu Beef & Fois Gras and the surprising flavours of the Kampachi Jalapeno with Truffle Soy (obviously). And there is some exciting at-the-table theatre courtesy of the flambéd O-Style Avocado Kazan.
Continuing the O-Style theme is the Hotate, with seared Hokkaido Scallops, Figs (providing a delicious sweetness), Chive and obligatory Truffle Goma.
Only the toasted Prawn Gyoza (dumpling) seems superfluous ahead of the arrival of the spectacular looking, dry-ice cascading Sushi Platter.
But the best is yet to come in the form of the Wagyu Himalayan Shioyaki steak, which is cooked table-side on a hot salt stone, and the ten-out-of-ten Yuzu-Saikyo Miso Black Cod, which is flown in fresh from the North Atlantic and marinated for 48 hours. These mains are served, of course, with Truffle Fried Rice.
Not a dessert person? Think again. Take a sweet glass of Nigori Umeshu unfiltered plum wine and experience hard-core food porn courtesy of a Passion Fruit Crème Brulee and O-Style Chocolate Fondant, in which, you’ll be pleased to know that finally, and for once, there’s not a hint of truffle.
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The Esquire Middle East 50 Best Restaurants list will be released in full in November 2017. The list ranks the best restaurants in the Gulf region, and is compiled by a trusted panel of experts. Keep reading EsquireME.com for more reviews, with the final positions announced on November 1.
