As a singer with more than a few gigs under his belt, John Mayer knows how to finish a show with a big hit that gets the crowd on their feet. Perhaps this is why the multiple Grammy-winner’s limited edition piece for Audemars Piguet that closes the book on the brand’s famous calibre 5134 is such a thrilling climax.
The musician unveiled his Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar John Mayer Limited Edition in Milan on Monday and seemed genuinely touched to have been given the opportunity to fade out the 5134 movement in a stunning perpetual calendar watch. Limited to 201 pieces (one for Mayer, 200 for us), the 18 carat white gold timepiece has an astonishing dark blue dial called Crystal Sky that uses a new technique called electroforming to create what looks like a jumble of crushed gemstones.
A keen watch collector, Mayer spoke about the end of calibre 5134 and why the QP (quantième perpétuel, French for perpetual calendar) is a “design playground.”
What was the first step in creating this remarkable watch?
John Mayer: It started in an authentic way with me designing a piece that represented everything I loved about the QP. When you’re redesigning something it’s nice to make slight changes like the colour but if you can change the watch’s practical functionality with a real understanding of why you’re doing it, then I think you’ve brought the piece to life.
Why does the QP have such a hold on you?
JM: There is no better graphical interpretation of time than a QP. For me, it represents the perfect example of a complication because of the way it envisions time: looking at the watch, you’re essentially looking at an entire year. As a design playground there is so much opportunity to have fun with a QP. Five dials: one big one and four little ones – there’s a lot you can do with that.
What was the moment when the process took flight?
JM: I sent my design to François [former Audemars Piguet CEO Francois-Henry Bennahmias] in 2021 and the most flattering thing happened: he said we should make several of these. That set us on the course of designing the dial, which became a really fun adventure.
What are your thoughts as you see the dial now?
JM: I can stare at this dial for hours, literally hours. You hear the phrase ‘play of light’ a lot with AP watches, but the play of light in this dial is endless. Each time I look at it I see new dimensions.
Previous QPs from Audemars Piguet featured a red 31 on the month subdial, but you changed it to white. Why?
JM: The red 31 was always on every dial, no matter what the dial colour was. I felt like it was printed on a window you’re trying to looking through. By making it white, and changing the design of the 31 so you can distinguish it from the 1 next to it with a diagonal step down, you change the tonal quality of the dial. I think it allows you to look a mile through the watch.
How does it feel to be wrapping up the calibre 5134?
JM: It’s an honour to send off the calibre this way. It’s also really clever because when we talk about ‘discontinuing a reference’ we feel that it’s over, or we don’t need it anymore, but actually this is a coronation. To say goodbye to the calibre but saying hello to a new cutting edge dial technique is an honour of a lifetime. Really, it’s one of the most meaningful things I’ve ever been involved in.