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Streetwear never got the respect that it deserved. Virgil Abloh changed that. Through his revolutionary brand Off-White, Abloh has brought his post-modern approach to wearable fashion and almost single-handedly changed the industry, elevating everyday attire and causing the big fashion houses to start taking influence from him and his ilk, rather than just the other way around.
His Off-White collaborations with both Nike and its Jordan brand have deconstructed classic silhouettes and become some of the most coveted in the sneaker world, and his work with Louis Vuitton, for which he’s served as the artistic director for the its menswear division since 2018, are the talk of the fashion world with each collection’s drop.
Esquire Middle East caught up with the singular and idiosyncratic designer and entrepreneur about the inspiration behind his latest Off-White collection, available in Dubai exclusively at Harvey Nichols.
Where do you start when designing a new collection?
The way my brain works is that I’m constantly thinking about things. Most collections are sparked by a combination of concepts I’ve been paying attention to; pieces of my past; and current conversations with friends.
Do you find that you notice little elements all around you that other people don’t?
I wouldn’t say I notice things that’s others don’t, but more that my brain never really turns off. I’m constantly in this state of ideation. It’s in my nature for my own internal dialogue to always be problem solving or thinking creatively.
What is the design philosophy for Off-White?
Off-White it’s sort of my own personal diary. It is a reflection of the modern world as I experience it. The brand is intended to reflect the social, political, cultural moments happening around us.
Do you still sketch and draw by hand, or is everything digital now?
My iPhone is my office. As long as my phone has some battery life, I can continue to work and produce as I want and need.
Are you ever surprised by the feedback from what the market is buying?
I think if you listen closely, consumers are constantly telling us what they want to see and wear. Now more than ever creators, designers, fashion houses, can all be in direct contact with their consumers through all of these social media platforms–we can and should invite our consumers to speak to us. If we do this, there will be no surprises in market or consumer activity. We’ll be working in tandem.
What is an Off-White project that you are particularly proud of?
As a kid growing up in Chicago I idolized Michael Jordan. He was everything. To be able to build on his legacy, in my own in a way was huge for me. It is something I never would have dreamed of being able to do when I was 17.
“An Artist can be artistic in any form, they just need to learn the techniques for the expression to come out”. Do you agree with this phrase?
Completely. But in my experience it’s better to develop your own techniques, and follow your own rules.
If you were to create a limited-edition capsule for the Middle East, what elements do you think it would need to have?
That’s a great question. Maybe I should take it to Instagram to learn what the people are wanting right now…
Off White’s latest collection is now available in store at Harvey Nichols Dubai in Mall of The Emirates.
