Milan Fashion Week: The highlights
1. Diesel Black Gold
Andreas Melbostad continued his evolution of the Diesel Black Gold label with a collection that was highly functional with a contemporary feel. Utility shirts and pants made for urban men to make their way through the metropolitan jungle of city life with fanny packs/bum bags (delete as necessary) common on many of the looks.
New Creative Director Alessandro Michele presented his second collection for the brand this season further stamping his mark on the new Gucci he’s creating. As a fashion editor it was exciting to watch, but will you be wearing the lace shirts and high-waisted bell-bottoms? We’ll give it a while to sink in but we wouldn’t be surprised if we’d become a little more accustomed to them come next summer.
While it was muggy and warm in Milan, inside the showspace of Fendi the runway was created so that it looked like it was a puddle-laden pavement, and the collection that followed mirrored that feel. Light, summer jackets and wellington-boot-soled shoes made the collection more suitable for a European summer but the bags were what really got our juices flowing. The roomy leather totes and backpacks in rich tones are already on our wish list.
4. Paul Smith and the BFC support emerging designers
While not technically a show, Sir Paul Smith took three up-and-coming British menswear designers from London to present their latest collections in his showroom in Milan. Agi & Sam, Craig Green and Lee Roach were all hand-picked by the British designer himself, all showing a diverse array of talent and impressive menswear pieces that’ll be on your radar soon.
Gaia Trussardi presented her S/S16 collection in the library of Milan’s Pinacoteca di Brera. Models read from the works of Pirandello, Kant, Baudelaire and Voltaire while a dark-robed figure wandered between them representing, as Trussardi explained, a lack of culture in today’s society. It made a dramatic impression, as did the clothes, which were sportswear-inspired in luxury materials like linens, leather and raffia.