At a time when dozens of lavish, relaxed-but-high-end restaurants (read: overly-stylized places serving simple dishes marked up at extortionate prices) are popping up monthly, Chef Nick Alvis’s return to Dubai’s dining scene couldn’t be more welcomed.
With the launch of The Beam by Nick Alvis, the chef’s established wheelhouse of elevated-yet-unpretentious modern European fare feels like a counterbalance that the city’s dining scene needs.
Taking over the slot that was occupied by Geales at the Le Royal Meridien Beach Resort, this new homegrown concept has all the feel of a cozy bistro, but one that you’d absolutely consider taking your partner to for a date night or anniversary.
Fifteen years ago, Alvis arrived in Dubai as part of a wave of dynamic new chefs trying to establish Dubai’s first fine-dining revolution. His training at Gordon Ramsay at Claridge’s (the famed chef’s finishing school for anyone worth their knives), allowed him to push the envelope in terms of Modern European cuisine as far as the city’s taste buds would allow. A decade of lessons taken from running popular restaurants Verre, Table 9, and Folly by Nick and Scott [Price, his longtime partner-in-brine] and industry consultation, has led to an astute understanding of what Dubai’s dining scene needs and, therefore, the meticulous creation of The Beam.
The wide, open space allows for a lot—a fresh fish counter; a dry-aging meat fridge (stocked exclusively with Westholme Australian grain and grass fed beef); elegant cocktail bar, should you opt out of the selection from the mobile gin trolley—which, importantly, avoids trying to cram in as many tables as possible. The bistro-style menu celebrates responsibly-sourced, seasonal ingredients and features dishes influenced by Europe’s traditional favourites. Meat cuts are dry-aged in-house, and the daily seafood market selection is expertly grilled over coals, complemented by fresh herbs, olive oil, and lemon.
But the real hero is it’s adaption to the space. The west-facing terrace and garden means that every evening allows for it to capture an extended sunset, with décor designed to harness the warmth of the sun’s beams. It’s what give the restaurant its name and, arguably, a reminder of what Dubai’s dining scene is missing. A subtle touch that reminds us that a Nick Alvis joint comes carefully considered.