If you have a WiFi connection, or simply live on planet Earth, you’ve undoubtedly come across one of the umpteenth number of kitchen/chef related shows orbiting pop culture over the last few years. Whether it’s Gordon Ramsay shouting at some buffoonish restaurateur, or the entire kitchen staff of The Bear echoing “Yes, chef!”, one thing is for certain: the world has worked up an insatiable appetite for kitchen dramas. They’re intense. Dramatic. Sweaty. And they move at the pace of which Ramsay dices onions. And most of the time, one, if not several, characters in both fiction and reality have worked in a restaurant in France, which is still regarded as the beacon of culinary education and perfection. Just ask Remy from Ratatouille.
So why has Cédric Grolet, arguably the most decorated pastry chef in the world with over 11 million Instagram followers, decided to expand from his local Paris to London?
Esquire: You left your native France and have now set up shop at the famous The Berkeley in London. What about this new location lead to you leaving France?
Grolet: Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley is my first outpost boutique from France. This was the right choice to make as The Berkeley is not only a magnificent destination in the city, but the Patisserie is in the heart of London, overlooking Hyde Park. In collaboration with one of the hotel’s designers, Rémi Tessier, we created an elevated state-of-the-art Patisserie experience that combines location, design and choice of crockery and materials that complement each other well. And a new location means new opportunities not just from a brand expansion point of view, but new creations that are adapted to the place and its people.
Esquire: Tell us about your first pastry making experience. What was it that ignited this career path?
Grolet: When I was 7 to 8 years old, I would often stay with my grandfather during summer holidays, who owned a restaurant in a hotel. I used to watch him make ice cream from scratch, which always fascinated me, especially the way the textures transformed so beautifully and seamlessly from one form to another. A few years later, at the age of 12, I baked my first strawberry cake for my mother, topped with sweet green Marzipan and the word “strawberry” on top. And the rest is history.
Esquire: What role does innovation play in the world of pastry making, and what do you prefer: perfecting an ancient pastry, like a croissant, or making something completely novel?
Grolet: I wouldn’t call it innovation, but rather reinvention and creation. I start with pastries that are rooted and inspired by the French culture and reinvent them in my own signature way, keeping the essence of the pastry alive. A croissant is a universal recipe, but it’s all in the detail and the way it’s made. The Trompe l’Oeil Fruits already existed in marzipan back in the day, and I’ve made pastries out of them.
“Ingredients make or break the dish.”
Chef Cédric Grolet
Esquire: Can you tell us about creating Cédric Grolet at The Berkeley, and how you achieved this in such a renowned location? As your Instagram shows, troves of people wait outside the window hoping to catch a glimpse of the master at work.
Grolet: The approach we took with the patisserie at The Berkeley is similar to the Parisian boutiques, offering signature creations that are adapted to the location and customers, while maintaining the consistency of quality and flavour across all stores. In terms of the F&B element, I work on my menus according to seasonality, adapting the pastry in response to feedback I get from customers and my on-site chefs. We also crafted a special knife which has been designed to perfectly cut through the pastries.
We curated ‘The Chef’s Counter’ for those looking for more than just a quick takeaway experience and gives a first-hand taste into the innovative and signature tasting menu of five sweet and one savoury pastry. And for those feeling up to it, you can even order a glass of Champagne to really light all your sense on fire.
Esquire: How important are regional ingredients, and are there ever certain things you wll abstain from making if the ingredients aren’t correct?
Grolet: The sourcing of my ingredients is very important, and I try to ensure that it’s not only fresh, but also from France, and whenever possible, specifically from my region, Auvergne. The final taste is always dependent on the raw ingredients I use, from flour to the different fruits to ensure the best quality and authentic experience. Ingredients make or break the dish.
Esquire: What is the best thing about being a pastry chef?
Grolet: I’m constantly creating, and that’s what stimulates me and keeps me constantly motivated. There is also something special about creating memorable experiences for my customers, ones that keep them coming back for more. That’s the best part.
