The Runway Report: Burberry A/W20 was a smorgasbord of rich heritage
For his fourth, and arguably most personal show for Burberry, Ricardo Tisci drew on his past in order to bring the fashion house forward. The show, titled ‘Memories’, was mammoth in both size and impact, with a whopping 108 looks walking down the mirrored runway to an audience of 800 hundred guests, who sat under the intricate iron-work hall of Kensington Olympia, London.
Tisci explainer of the inspiration behind the sentimental, travel-centric show said:
"Moving back to London recently - a city I first discovered as a young student - gave me a real sense of nostalgia. It was the place where I learnt to be myself and a city where I gained the confidence to be the man that I am today. I have this strong feeling of pride when I think about the early days of my career, when I was an emerging designer still learning my craft and taking inspiration wherever I could find it."
The collection itself was a journey that wound from streetwear to genteel tailoring, stopping off at some unexpected and highly progressive silhouettes on its way. Burberry beige and the house’s signature greys were punctuated by scarlet-suiting and earthy greens, giving the deeply autumnal feeling collection a shouty twist.
Outerwear proved to be king, with patchwork-plaid puffer jackets and a deconstructed rugby shirt-turned-poncho making us pray for cool weather once the collection lands in stores.
Esquire highlights included a laminated check trenchand the update on the Arthur sneaker, which with the addition of a Cuban heel now boasts a notion of hybrid-cool.
The overall feel of the collection was as brooding and dynamic as the shows front row, with street-style royalty such as AJ Tracey, Luka Sabbat and Mahmood all turning out to support the heritage brand, and we’d put our last dirham on there being a flurried race as to who can get their hyped-hands on the sleeveless trench-cum-puffer jacket.
The show-notes concluded with a declaration of certified carbon neutrality for the collection, and an assurance that the house ‘has taken measures to both reduce and offset the carbon emissions associated with the show’.
Whether it was reactionary to the former seasons disruptive Extinction Rebellion protests or a step towards a more sustainable business model, fashion is always more stylish when it comes with a conscience.