Dior and Berluti score top marks at Paris Fashion Week
Dior and Berluti showed exactly why they’re menswear’s current darlings at Paris Fashion Week.
Kim Jones continued to demonstrate exactly why sales have shot up since he took over. Dior still championed streetwear staples, while reinforcing the label’s reputation for effortless elegance.
Meanwhile, Jones’ Dior Homme predecessor – Kris van Assche – produced a sharp and richly-coloured spring/summer collections with an inclusive co-ed twist.
Both designers paid homage to the suit, boot and shirt – the classic trinity of tailoring – but re-imagining it to suit the summer. For Jones, that included bleached-out Dior egg-shell blue hues, pinks and greys. For Assche, it involved embracing a much louder colour profile.
Back to the future
Recent Dior collections revolved around Jones’ obsession with the space age, and this collection continued to present examples of this concept; including a metallic Rimowa case (that doubled as a bottle cooler) and see-through boots matched with Dior socks.
Elsewhere, tailored colours were muted, there was a selection of laboriously-handmade deep-blue and orange plisse shirts.
But the clothes weren’t the only stars at the show. Dior’s front row included the likes of Kate Moss and Lilly Allen, J Balvin and his new partner former Miss Argentina Valentina Ferrer.
The next generation
While Dior continued very much on brand this year, Berluti was cut free. Van Assche showed off blocks of rich Yves Klein blue and ochre orange suits.
Of course, daring colours require near-perfect silhouettes, and the Belgian designer certainly delivered that, removing sleeves from several of his suits and town coats, making them perfect for the summer.
Singer Ricky Martin sat in the front row, and Berluti mixed silver-fox older male and female models, to mix it up.
Van Assche's last big statement was Gigi Hadid, wearing a mint green sleeveless double-breasted suit, including picked marabou feathers.
"It's a challenge for me reinventing myself and the DNA (of the brand)," said Van Assche after the show.
"I refuse to think Berluti should always be about the timeless luxury. It is also supposed to be for now," he added.