Esquire's top picks from Milan Fashion Week [UPDATED]
The Esquire team is currently on the ground at Milan Fashion Week, soaking up all the spring/summer 2019 shows have to offer.
Each day, we're rounding up the best of the best and telling you why we love it—and why you should have it on your radar. Here's what caught our eye today:
Don’t let the Wes Anderson-ish nylon trapper hats throw you off—this is indeed a spring-summer show. (Though it's worth noting that some pieces like wool topcoats were noticeably wintry; a clever move for Prada’s customers given that summer collections increasingly hit stores in frigid January.)
As always, Miuccia Prada looks to subvert our expectations and inject artistry into her collection. The best pieces of this season were those that demonstrated her painterly power of pairing blocks of colour together—like a brown blazer over a blue-and-white top. It’s bold, yet classic at the same time.
In a season relatively short on big-name shows, key trends seem more focused on style that's easy on the eye and, critically, easy to wear. For his second outing at Pal Zileri, Rocco Iannone showed a polish and sophistication that belied his relative youth (he's 34 years old).
The house, too, is new to the runway: Iannone’s first show last season was also the manufacturer’s first foray into the runway system. The collection oozed quiet self-confidence in featherlight tailoring and luxurious fabrics.
Shapes were moderately loose but well suited to the modern, dressed-down work aesthetic, while highlights were butter-soft patinated leather jackets and subtly ornate—yet also strangely wearable—brocade blazers.
Ermenegildo Zegna Couture
Alessandro Sartori took things down a notch last night with this his fourth season back at Ermenegildo Zegna. Focusing on easy, natural separates that moved and flowed with the summer breeze in a palette of earths and pastels, his vision seemed tailor-made for a post-millennial in search of something more substantial than disposable, gone-in-sixty-seconds trends.
Yet there were plenty of playful pieces for the unabashed fashion hound—from statement sneakers and ankle-hugging tailored joggers to bold shirts printed with nautical doodles from a sailor's notebook.
Brunello Cucinelli continues to be one of the sharpest-thinking designers, a guy who doesn’t just possess a perfect sense of what makes men look good; he also gives thought to how men are living and working. And that last note is an essential and all-too-rare quality in menswear at the moment. And his new collection brought his skills to life.
His strong move into brown—chocolate, tobacco and snuff—can at first seem like an unlikely shade to embrace for warm weather. Don’t panic. Think of it as the perfect, chic alternative to blue. And when the suits as well as the pants and jackets are made in fabrics that are impossibly light as well as luxe, his collection not only keeps a guy cool in the heat, it also moves with our (over)active lives. It’s a standout season.
Versace brimmed with self confidence, blending street clothes, old-school, look-at-me glam, and tailored suits in a way that felt fresh yet grown up. Even the sportswear—like a red python jacket with a matching bucket hat—oozed a sense of adult luxe reminiscent of the '90s.
The show, staged in the wisteria-draped garden of the storied Via Gesù headquarters, seemed untroubled by the whirling currents that beset the menswear season these days. Donatella brought it home in both senses.